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Routes in M&M wall (AKA "Supercave Wall")

Ellen Pea T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Exorcism of Mark Hanna, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
L & H Route (Free Variation), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tiger, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Erik Lawson and Lee Arden Pete
Page Views: 3,064 total, 31/month
Shared By: arden on Oct 9, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

1. 5.10a. 40 m. Climb left facing corner to belay stance just below  left slanting twin cracks.

2. 5.10d. 50 m.  Follow diagonal twin cracks to an immaculate, inset dihedral with a challenging thin crux towards the end.

Walk left approximately 20m to the start of the next pitch.

3. 5.11a. 50 m. Climb corners and flakes straight up to the large left-slanting ceiling/arch feature. Navigate left and up until it is possible to layback-undercling-stem the severely leaning corner crack of the arch. The crux is the exit arch, with a tricky lip sequence. A long,complex pitch.

4. 5.11c. 20 m. Undercling a short, left-leaning arch until you can pull out right on face holds. Make a difficult step up move past a second bolt and on to the "supercave".

5. 5.11b. 30 m. Exit the left side of the cave via a short overhanging wall aiming for the left-facing corner an early crux eases to fun laybacking to a pedestal belay ledge.

6. 5.10a. 56 m. Climb steep corners and ramps up the dominant weakness to the top of the wall.


Descent:

Two ropes are needed to rappel. Almost every anchor is bolted. Some diagonal rappel shenanigans are needed to avoid being stranded. Alternatively top out the formation and descend strightforward 3rd class ramp (climbers left of the wall) to regain approach gully.


The above is from squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.

Protection

Double cams from tips to #2 BD, wires,  extra extendable draws.

Approach

Park at milepost 166, just west of the pullout for the Burgundy col approach.

Hike directly up the gully to the base of the wall. The gully holds snow early in the season and mountain boots and crampons will help, but by midsummer the gully is predominantly scree, one steep step can be passed on the left. There is water in the gully into late summer.

After about 45 minutes, exit the gully onto a right-trending ledge. Start off the upper right side of the ledge.

(From description in squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.)
psathyrella ammophila
Seattle, WA
psathyrella ammophila   Seattle, WA
I could've been mistaken, but it appeared that a minimal amount of gardening at the start of p3 would reveal a few placements in a solid tips crack immediately left of the flakes, which'd nicely keep gear and rope away from the slightly nasty loosey sharpnesses. Didn't have a nut tool, so didn't check it ourselves. Nov 16, 2017
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
Did this yesterday, excellent route with every pitch being quite memorable.

Agree that the 10d pitch seemed to be every bit as hard as anything else on the route, call it 11b.

The crux for me was actually p3 which I found to be intimidating because of its thuggery and a little bit of suspect rock, great pitch despite!

The pitch out of the cave was awesome, thankful for the magical hueco.

The 10c pitch at the top was no give away either and quite exposed.

The 11c pitch wasn't as hard as some of the others IMO but I TR'd that pitch

the beta for rappelling into the cave from the top of the 10c pitch is bueno. We easily made it with double 60's rapping down the slab was nice thank you Thad and Thanks to the FA for the hard work. Super route Super cave!

p1 10a
p2 11b
p3 11b
p4 11b
p5 11b
p6 10c Aug 21, 2017
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
  5.11
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
  5.11
Awesome!

Any one of pitches 2,3,4 or 5 could be considered the crux depending on the climber. They all felt low 5.11 to me, with P5 maybe a little harder, but also my favorite. All well protected, not sure where the PG13 comes from, maybe the suspect flakes on P3?

The direct .10c finish for pitch 6 is great. Steep face and crack, a little kitty litter rock but awesome moves that feel legit when you're tired. This might be blasphemy to say but you aren't missing a lot if you skip the last 30 foot 5.8 pitch and just rap from here.

The raps didn't require much shenanigans at all (skip P5 anchor and go straight from P6 to the cave. Other than walking back along the major ledge to the top of P2. They were actually super easy because the wall is so steep and smooth. Aug 4, 2017
Mike Dobie
  5.11 PG13
Mike Dobie  
  5.11 PG13
Did this route last weekend. The rock is really cool looking like tiger stripes. Awesome to find black crystals in the pockets on pitch 3 and 4. Pitch 2 is rain and snow polished rock. Similar to the friction (or lack of friction) you get on river polished rock.

I would call it grade 3. The rock looks cool and the black crystals are unique! But I was surprised by the polished granite and amount of suspect flakes that needed to be navigated around for protection on pitch 3 and 4.

Pitch 5 was the crux for both myself and my partner. (maybe height dependent) It would be fair to let people know that the steep corner of pitch 5 and also the thin crux of pitch 2 to involve some finicky and specific gear. Gave me a little bit of that bold feeling on the onsight trying to find the right gear in the right spot. Specifically in pitch 5 as your gear is shared with a handhold. I found the 5.11c pitch to feel much easier in comparison to both of these pitches.

All in all a good granite rock climb that features a cave and a unique type of granite! Jul 24, 2017
This route is described in the new guidebook: Cascades Rock By Blake Herrington. May 8, 2016
Ryan Hoover
  5.11b/c
Ryan Hoover  
  5.11b/c
Agree with Ben on the 10d pitch! So good though. Sep 28, 2015
Managed to climb this awesome route yesterday. But, IMO, I thought the 10d second pitch was the crux of the route. Also, it seems that the massive wedged flake thing at the end of pitch 3 (where you pop out to the belay) is a definite widow maker. But objective dangers aside, this route rocks. My favorite was the last 11b pitch.

I'd grade it 10a, 11b/c, 11b, 11b, 11b. Just my 2 cents. It could be that conditions made pitch 2 harder...or that something broke. Jul 23, 2015
wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Did enjoy the route immensely. Wrote a little about it on my journal
Jun 9, 2015
Travis McClinchey
Squamish, BC
  5.11- PG13
Travis McClinchey   Squamish, BC
  5.11- PG13
What a fun route. Pitch three is a real classic!

There is great beta and topos found on Colin Moorehead's website ( squamishclimbingsource.com/…) and Blake Herrington's Blog ( blakeclimbs.blogspot.ca/201…). Sep 8, 2014
Most people know this route as "Super Cave" and those that have climbed it consider it to be one of the best routes in Washington.

I personally consider the second pitch and the "Crack to the future" variation to be some of the best climbing I have ever done.

Its kinda a joke this thing is not in a guide book... May 25, 2014
arden  
One can either start at the lower ledge, climbing the excellent first and second pitches, or one may hike higher and begin at the high ledge skipping perhaps the best and hardest pitch. Oct 9, 2009