Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Erik Lawson and Lee Arden Pete
Page Views: 6,050 total · 41/month
Shared By: arden on Oct 9, 2009
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

1. 5.10a. 40 m. Climb left facing corner to belay stance just below  left slanting twin cracks.

2. 5.10d. 50 m.  Follow diagonal twin cracks to an immaculate, inset dihedral with a challenging thin crux towards the end.

Walk left approximately 20m to the start of the next pitch.

3. 5.11a. 50 m. Climb corners and flakes straight up to the large left-slanting ceiling/arch feature. Navigate left and up until it is possible to layback-undercling-stem the severely leaning corner crack of the arch. The crux is the exit arch, with a tricky lip sequence. A long,complex pitch.

4. 5.11c. 20 m. Undercling a short, left-leaning arch until you can pull out right on face holds. Make a difficult step up move past a second bolt and on to the "supercave".

5. 5.11b. 30 m. Exit the left side of the cave via a short overhanging wall aiming for the left-facing corner an early crux eases to fun laybacking to a pedestal belay ledge.

6. 5.10a. 56 m. Climb steep corners and ramps up the dominant weakness to the top of the wall.

Descent:

Two ropes are needed to rappel. Almost every anchor is bolted. Some diagonal rappel shenanigans are needed to avoid being stranded. Alternatively top out the formation and descend strightforward 3rd class ramp (climbers left of the wall) to regain approach gully.

The above is from squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.

Protection

Double cams from tips to #2 BD, wires,  extra extendable draws.

Approach

Park at milepost 166, just west of the pullout for the Burgundy col approach.

Hike directly up the gully to the base of the wall. The gully holds snow early in the season and mountain boots and crampons will help, but by midsummer the gully is predominantly scree, one steep step can be passed on the left. There is water in the gully into late summer.

After about 45 minutes, exit the gully onto a right-trending ledge. Start off the upper right side of the ledge.

(From description in squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.)

Photos