Avg: 3.7 from 131 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||Steve Marts, Don McPherson and Fred Stanley - July 1965|
|Page Views:||35,152 total · 204/month|
|Shared By:||Scott Coldiron on Aug 9, 2009 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Look to the left side of the East Face. The Liberty Crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof (2 pitches up)on its right side. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack.
-1 set micro stoppers.
-1 set offsets,
-1 set reg. stoppers.
-doubles in TCU's or C3's #00-3.
-doubles in cams to 3"(c4 sizes .5-3).
-one #4 cam is optional. 3 48" slings. 12-16 trad draws.
-1 BD cliffhanger or similar hook is usually called for, but it is very easy to do without (even for inexperienced aid climbers).
-2 alpine etriers
-1 jumar 1 webbing loop, 1 Gri-Gri or similar. for jugging. (This method of jugging makes the Lithuaniun Lip easier to follow.
-or 2 jumars and webbing loops.
1) The aid is all clean, and probably will seem like C1. No pins or hooks are needed (unless some fixed piece has come out).
2) With the same C1-C2 aid rating, one can do just up to 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, or 5.11 free climbing.
3) The only completely free ascent was done with a pre-placed static rope, and the moves over the Lithuanian Lip apparently has no recorded repeats.