Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade V
FA: Steve Marts, Don McPherson and Fred Stanley - July 1965
Page Views: 35,152 total · 204/month
Shared By: Scott Coldiron on Aug 9, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details



Excellent route guide from Steph Abegg

good topo

route description to come...


Park at the turnout on the hairpin turn just east of Washington Pass on Highway 20. Walk back toward the pass, look for the pond on the south side of the road. At the East end of the pond, look for the trail heading into the woods. It is often marked with cairns. The Trail will bring you to the East Face of Liberty Bell.

Look to the left side of the East Face. The Liberty Crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof (2 pitches up)on its right side. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack.


-1 60 m rope will work for a 1 day ascent. If in doubt, bring a tag line.
-1 set micro stoppers.
-1 set offsets,
-1 set reg. stoppers.
-doubles in TCU's or C3's #00-3.
-doubles in cams to 3"(c4 sizes .5-3).
-one #4 cam is optional. 3 48" slings. 12-16 trad draws.
-1 BD cliffhanger or similar hook is usually called for, but it is very easy to do without (even for inexperienced aid climbers).
-extra biners
-2 alpine etriers
-1 jumar 1 webbing loop, 1 Gri-Gri or similar. for jugging. (This method of jugging makes the Lithuaniun Lip easier to follow.
-or 2 jumars and webbing loops.

Note on the rating

This route has a range of ratings, depending on how much is aided. A few things to keep in mind:

1) The aid is all clean, and probably will seem like C1. No pins or hooks are needed (unless some fixed piece has come out).

2) With the same C1-C2 aid rating, one can do just up to 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, or 5.11 free climbing.

3) The only completely free ascent was done with a pre-placed static rope, and the moves over the Lithuanian Lip apparently has no recorded repeats.