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Routes in South Early Winters Spire

Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Passenger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southwest Couloir
Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bryan Burdo and Scott Johnston 2007
Page Views: 6,982 total, 132/month
Shared By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 18, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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35 Opinions

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Description

The route ascends the south face of South Early Winters Spire and starts in a small left-facing dihedral with 4 bolts.

Protection

doubles to 2", 60m rope
blakeherrington
  5.11-
blakeherrington  
  5.11-
In reference to the topos and description in Cascades Rock (which I wrote):

  • James Ellis is correct and Cascades Rock has a typo - P8 as described on Page 172 should say .10b not .11b - the topo on Page 173 has it correct where it says ".10 steep hands".
  • The mystery bolts and anchors on the face to the left of The Passenger and Hitchhiker are in the vicinity of (or on the lower part of) a likely unrepeated aid route called "The Midnight Ride" (Coultrip-Sanford 1977) - The visible modern hardware is (I think...) part of a 1 or 2 pitch 5.11+ free climb which Bryan Burdo bolted. I don't believe it tops out.
Jun 9, 2016
Great route. No wide gear needed. If you take a double set of cams you'll end up with lots of gear on your harness at the belays. Lots o bolts make this feel super casual. If you're pushing your envelope at this grade it's a perfect route to try as it is very very well protected. You CANNOT rap with a single 60 without lowering off a single bolt. Granted it's a new bolt in bomber granite, but if this freaks you out then plan on leaving a sling or two. Really fun day. Approach from the hairpin was pretty straight forward but descending that way was not bueno. Jul 28, 2017
Daniel Bookless 1  
  5.11b
When a routes this good, I feel
Obligated to say it's realllllly good. Jul 4, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Ah, Escargot. It wouldn't surprise me if Nicola accidently did a 5.13.

BTW Sol, Nicola and I recently met your Uncle Doug at the Lone Pine Campground. He liked talking of your climbing exploits. Aug 15, 2016
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
Yep that's Escargot, not sure where the name came from. Goes at 5.13-? But really out of character for the pass as it is a ridiculous bolt ladder.. Aug 14, 2016
Anyone have beta on the bolted line to the right of Hitchhiker? I did a couple very good slabby pitches of it by mistake a couple years ago. Is it Escargot? Jun 11, 2016
Climbed the Hitchhiker on 6/5/2016.

There are a couple bolted lines maybe five minutes from the saddle along the base of the wall. The Passenger and the Hitchhiker are a ways further. Does anyone know what these are?

We used Ian Nicholson's topo from the Washington Pass Climbing book. At the top of pitch 4 climb the juggy thing, not the crack in the corner. Linking pitches 5 & 6 is recommended. There were many more bolts than shown on the topo on pitch 7 getting up to the crux. Don't miss the bolt on the lip just after pulling through the 11b fingers on pitch 7. The start of pitch 8 required climbing through a tree and up a wide crack to reach the bolt line on the 5.10 slab (this is not shown on the topo).

We brought doubles to 2", one 3", and one 4". There are a bunch of wide sections that would take a 5", but if you're comfortable running out 5.7/5.8 wide-ish stuff you don't need it.

I'd recommend also looking at Blake Herrington's topo in his Cascades Rock book. Not quite as much detail but a bit more accurate in my opinion. Jun 7, 2016
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
  5.11a/b
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
  5.11a/b
Really fun day of climbing on high quality rock. I agree with Kerwin, pitch 8 (pitch 7 in the new Cascades Rock book) felt about 5.11b compared to the other 5.11a pitches on the climb. Also the topo in the book lists the following pitch as 5.11b, but it is actually more like 5.10b.

Lots of unnecessary bolts on this one.. Jun 6, 2016
kerwinl
  5.11a/b
kerwinl  
  5.11a/b
Pitch 8 of route description in photo above goes completely free at around 11b, look for the fingers/tips jams in the corner formed by the roof and face. A much better alternative then aiding through, if you still have the strength left. Amazing route! Jul 7, 2014
Rafe
  5.10d
Rafe  
  5.10d
Given the bolted belays and the amount of protection bolts on the pitches I'd dare to say a rack of singles would work for this route. I can't think of a pitch that doubles were placed on. One thing that consistently stuck out to me while on the route was the absurd amount of gear I had on my harness while arriving at each belay, which was a set of doubles to 2" with a 3" and 4" singles.

Excellent route. Jun 23, 2014