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Routes in South Early Winters Spire

Boving Roofs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct East Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hitchhiker, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Passenger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
South Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southwest Couloir
Southwest Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Donald Anderson & Larry Scott, 1964
Page Views: 20,448 total, 194/month
Shared By: BenCooper on Apr 27, 2009 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This a great route on very good rock, with good pro on the harder sections, and some easier and spicier slab runouts. Definitely a step up from the Beckey Route in length and commitment, but not as committing as say, the NW Face of Liberty Bell. Also, note that you can add a long pitch below what I call P1. We just traversed in, but it is possible to climb up directly to the left-leaning white crack.

References: Beckey Bible (Cascade Alpine Guide, Rainy Pass to Fraser River) has a good topo.

P1: Scramble up the easy ledge that starts in front of the Y-shaped Larch tree. Belay off of a sturdy tree and follow cracks straight up through an awkward bulge with great gear to an awesome ledge at the base of the Wavy Crack. 5.8+, ~160 feet.

P2: climb the nice, wide, 5.8 left-leaning crack. Belay at the top of this crack at a tree. 5.8, ~80 feet.

P3: Continue up and left to a tree, then up and right to a belay below the Boving Roof and the West Face route to the left. 5.6, ~60 ft.

P4: Step out right around the corner then go up to the base of the obvious dual offwidths, past some delicate, unprotected 5.6+ slab moves. ~100 ft. This can be linked with the next pitch.

P5: The bear hug pitch. Climb the very fun dual offwidth crack. From the top of the cracks, move up and right below a white wall into a corner and belay. 5.7+, ~80 ft.

P6: clip a bolt, then climb easy slab (5.5 or so) to the arete. Continue following the slabby arete with no pro, and belay at the 'Rabbit Ears,' two bouldery towers with rappel slings. Watch rope drag. ~165 ft.

P7: Either rappel or downclimb into the gully, then climb up from the gully on easy crack systems to the summit blocks. 5.5, ~80 ft. Watch your rope line here if you combine the downclimb with the cracks to the summit. I remember doing this as a short downclimb pitch, then a short pitch to the summit.

Location

The route is located on the south/west side of the WA Pass group, on the west face of South Early Winter Spire. Hike from the Blue Lake TH for ~1.25 miles until you reach a clearing. From here, follow climber trails (step lightly and around the fragile alpine meadows) to the far right side of the face, underneath the SW Couloir.

From here, scramble up the couloir past the giant chockstone. Continue up about 50 feet until you can find a decent spot to traverse left across some ledges and through some trees on the face. I remember doing a short 20 foot rappel to get to the beginning of the 5.8 left-leaning crack.

Descend the South Arete route with some class 3/4 down climbing and a couple of rappels.

Protection

1 60m rope. 1 set of stoppers, 1 set of cams to #3 camalot, with doubles in the 1" to 2" range for extra comfort, though it's not really needed. Also bring a large cam (approx. new #5 camalot size) for the Bear Hug pitch.
mtngrrl  
What a fun route! Lots of info out there on this route, mostly great, some of it misleading. Here's my two cents.

At the starting traverse by the Y-shaped larch, don’t get sucked too far left – It’s doable but loose, awkward and a total tree schwack. Great fun w/a pack on lead ;) If you do end up there, save a #1BD for the finish.

I'm glad we belayed just below the Wavy Crack, not at the larger ledge 30 feet below. The start to Wavy is balancey and extra rope drag is, well, a drag.

Some descriptions recommend making 2 short pitches out of the low 5th class stretch between the top of Wavy Crack and the start of Nervous Nelly (ie: jag left in an easy dihedral, belay at tree, then jag right around easy corner to belay at ledge below lichened slabs of Nervous Nelly). Just combine those w/a mind for rope drag at the turn. Or do one of the harder variations directly to the ledge belay at the start of Nervous Nelly.

Some recommend combining the the Nervous Nelly pitch with a short pitch below it. I would not want to do that, esp at 5’2” – the devious crux downstep and reach for the crack is balancey. Regardless your height, reducing rope drag there is good.

Ditto Nick Drake and Zachary that Pitch 6 is much longer than 165 feet. OP might want to edit that. From the ledgy belay at the start of the Aretes (just below the old bolt ), with a 70m we just made it to a gear anchor about 10 ft shy of the small tree that marks the entrance (down and right) to the gulley traverse that bypasses the Rabbit Ears. This is about 30 feet short of the sketchy Rabbit Ears rap.

On the gulley traverse (when no snow), you can protect your second with a .5-.75 BD if you take the higher, solid foot ledge.

Descent note for those uncomfy with steeper downclimbing: Below the Sharkfin, after the hand-crack downclimb in the corner, when you come to the narrow chimney that leads you steeply into the obvious chimney/rap zone, there is a hidden rap station to skier's left in a thick tree behind a rock (boulder down to it on skier's left of the tree). Pull your rope carefully. After the second tree rap, there is one more rap w/chains. Sep 7, 2017
slim

  5.8
slim    
  5.8
fun route, but man i pity an entry level 5.8 climber on the nervous nelly and arete pitches... Aug 6, 2017
Eli B.
 
Eli B.  
 
Fun! long, mellow route. Fun route finding and fantastic views at the top. Be carful not to traverse too far up at the start or you'll miss the first pitch or two. The bear hug pitch is awesome. A number 4 camelot was nice to have to place at the bottom of the pitch. Fun and easy runout to the top of the pitch where you can sling something very securely. Descent is straightforward if you scramble south from the summit down into the gully, then climb onto the south ridge about 75 feet down the gully (to your left when you're in the gully) and then scramble/rappel your way down the ridge to the bottom. Jun 16, 2016
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.8
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.8
DAMN! This route is awesome. Take a day off and doing it during the week to avoid the crowds - you'll be happy you did. I climbed in on a Friday, and two other teams were on the route behind us. Currently, the approach is all snow, which makes it nice and easy once you find your way through the woods. We brought trekking poles and did not bring crampons or axes but they might be a good idea depending on your comfort on steep snow... there were a few places where long falls were possible, and many people have been injured in falls on snow while approaching WA Pass rock climbs.

I can't fathom why anyone would traverse to the base of "Wavy Crack"... the approach pitch is great climbing and has a short and well-protected 5.8+ crux.

This route is not sustained at 5.8 and is a great route for the new 5.8 leader, as all the cruxes are easily protectable with bomber gear at your waist. Jun 6, 2016
Max Leitner
Seattle, Washington
  5.8+
Max Leitner   Seattle, Washington
  5.8+
Thought every pitch of this climb was awesome. I'd recommend the 5.8+ 190ft direct start described in the SuperTopo guidebook. The crux on that pitch is easily protected #1 and/or #3 and the climbing was fun.

If you do that way remember to set the second belay right beneath the wavy crack. I mistook a rap station for the ideal belay spot and fought rope drag for most of wavy crack which was a bummer. May 16, 2016
Zachary Winters
Mazama, Washington
 
Zachary Winters   Mazama, Washington
 
Nervous Nelly pitch takes a #.75BD a couple body lengths before the 5.6 move

Bear Hug pitch starts at #3 widening to beyond #5 at mid height. If you are confident, a 3 or 4 down low will keep you from falling on the anchor, but won't keep you from hitting the slab.

Description of "Aretes" pitch has length wrong. Distance from "bolt" below arete to Rabbit Ears is about 230ft, not 165ft.

Going to the Bunny Ears makes sense when the gully is full of snow, if not snow-filled, the gully is simpler May 2, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
After looking at several (too many) sources of info on this route, we got confused about which pitches started where. Our first mistake was to come in from above the chockstone. This is really lame, it's hard to find the traversing downclimb to the left-leaning "Wavy Crack," and this downclimb involves stepping on dead trees directly above a death-plummet. Don't do this. Start at the Y-shaped tree at the base of the wall. Didn't do this pitch so can't comment on it.

The "Wavy Crack" is a lot of fun. If you've got your gear on a sling, don't put it on your right side. A #5 Camalot may help protect near the top, or it may not.

The 5.5 pitch can be linked with the "Wavy Crack." The variation to the right is described as "5.9 layback" in the Beckey guide - is this the 10- blake refers to?

From here, traverse right to a ledge. If you belayed above the "Wavy Crack" then you can combine this with the 5.5 easily. I wouldn't recommend combining this with the next pitch, as you really wouldn't want to have rope drag while creeping up the slab.

The "Nervous Nelly" pitch involves about 60 feet of scary slab with a single solid placement in the middle. There is one move that was a long reach for me at 5'8" while my follower described a scary down-step.

The "Bear Hug" pitch can easily be combined with the previous one. Although some sources say #4's work here, it's only partially true... you can fit one in, but it wouldn't keep you from hitting the slab if you come out. However, although it's heady to commit, once you're in it it's super easy and I felt secure without a #5.

From here, the climbing becomes really easy, with basically one short section of exposure. Traverse right to a huge ledge, then move around the corner and up to another ledge below the arete. The bolt here is a 1/4" relic and is completely unnecessary. Enjoy the final bit of technicality, then continue up to a convenient belay anywhere you wish.

Do NOT go up to the "Bunny Ears" - not sure why anyone would have ever done this. Instead, at a hardy tree, downclimb slightly into the gully. From here, it's a very easy and short romp to the top.

Downclimbing the South Arete is quite easy and obvious. It involved only a single rappel of the chimney section, somewhere in the middle. The rest is mostly 4th class with short sections of unexposed and non-technical 5th.

Great, great route! Aug 15, 2015
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
Really fun route, highly recommend it. On the final pitch a 70m did not reach the rabbit ears with sparse and long slung placements, horrific drag. I had my partner simul the last 30 or so feet. Consider splitting this up with a belay off a tree or coil it down to say 40m and simul (climbing after the arete part of the slab is low angle and quite easy). I would recommend downclimbing in to the gully over rapping off the rabbit ears. Jun 19, 2015
Jennifer L  
 
Using the route description from Supertopo, if you opt to do the easy 5.5 variation on P3, you can link P3 and P4. P4 is really short. Just don't clip into the tree that's used for a belay at top of P3, otherwise there's a lot of drag. Sep 9, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
Another fun variation is to climb the Boving roofs, instead of the slab traverse to bear hug OW. Stiff 10b. Aug 15, 2014
Jordan Sahlberg  
  5.8
Very fun route. To echo the sentiment of those above, the 5.10- crack above the classic 5.8 jam pitch is absolutly amazing. Jun 14, 2012
Nick Jackson
  5.8
Nick Jackson  
  5.8
The 5.10 finger crack Blake speaks of is incredibly fun, I definitely recommend it.

Also, we didn't take a #5. There's a spot for a small (yellow?) TCU behind a chockstone for the wide section on the left leaning crack pitch that's good for some mental pro. Feb 23, 2012
Ralph Bodenner  
  5.8
+1 to Blake's first suggestion for P1. Fun, steep, well-protected 5.8. With a few longer runners, you can link the 5.6 slab with the 5.7 bearhug pitch (which protects well with a single #5 Camalot). After the next slabby pitch, simulclimb toward the rabbit ears, but move down and left around them on a ledge (one bit of exposure, easily protected). You will reach the notch this way without rappel shenanigans. Then it's a short 5.4 wide crack to the top.

A big avalanche path now obliterates the trail at the second switchback. Hike straight up when you meet it until below the slabby cliffs, then pass them on the right. Jul 7, 2009
The best way to reach the base of the slanting wide crack (listed here as P1) is to begin at a Y-shaped Larch tree, then follow corners and cracks straight up. (5.8)

A second option for pitch #1 is to the left of this, and is .10b gear-protected face, with some flakes and cracks.

Above the wide slanting crack (pitch #1 here) you can also go straight up and climb a three-star 5.10- finger crack. May 2, 2009
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
I'd recommend climbing into the gully on the right of the rabbit ears. It's fairly easy and avoids the rappel. The rappel is kind of scary since I'm not quite sure what is holding the rabbit ears on. Apr 28, 2009