Mt. Despair Climbing

Mount Despair is a large, imposing peak that lies just west of Goodell Creek, and forms the west wall of the gorge opposite of the Southern Pickets. It has two high summits of granitic rock, with arms of ridges reaching down to either side, over large glaciers that pour waterfalls into Goodell Creek and others. It is notable for being the location of Fred Beckey's first FA, led by Lloyd Anderson. Despair's proximity to the NC Highway valley (being just northwest of Newhalem) leads to its enormous relief of 4500 feet. Rock, being granitic, is solid and well-formed. Despair is a neighboring peak of Mount Triumph (the two form a giant cirque), and the two form a dramatic and beautiful sight from the Pickets or other vantage points.
Only a few known routes exist on Despair, due to difficulty of access - the famous brushy-cliff defenses of many North Cascades peaks are ever present here. Frequently, easy but long slabs lead to glaciers which lead to several pitches of climbing on the summit pyramids. The North Peak is reachable by a moderate snow or ice climb, depending on the conditions, but the main peak has more difficulties.