Southeast Ridge (SE Corner)

The Southeast Ridge, called the Southeast Corner in Fred Beckey's guidebook, gains 600' vertical feet from the starting notch to the summit. The alpine grade on this summit Pyramid variation depends on the route used to gain this point. Sulfide Glacier II, Fisher Chimneys III ect.

The rock quality is very good during the entire Pyramid ascent and the climbing pleasant. I highly recommend this route variation. The three main options for when to rope up are at the start of the climb, for the last 3 pitches or not at all. If you're comfortable on the terrain & the exposure I recommend you solo until someone on your team is not not and rope up then. Easy low class 5 moves with some exposure are not encountered until the last three pitches and the lower pitches are easier with less exposure.

The route starts out as bomber class 3 rock with good protection options for gear (cracks to 1 1/2"). After a pitch of class 3 scrambling on solid rock you get into easy 4th class terrain for the next two pitches with bomber options for slinging horns to use as you simul climb or for terrain belay anchors. The rock simply inspires confidence!

The last three pitches will contain some low class 5 moves. All class 5 moves can be protected with slings. None of these moves should exceed 5.4 and none are tougher than 5.3 if you're selective in your route finding. Beckey calls this route "Class 4" as he does with many class 5 routes where the FA party simple didn't rope up. The general consensus is that there are class 5 moves up to 5.3-5.4 on the last three pitches. Because the rock is good quality and the exposure minimal, parties often chose not to rope up.

The best way down is to rap the 4th class gully that is the standard ascent route up the Pyramid. A 60 meter rope is recommended for this.

Route finding on the approach and descent will be time consuming on Mount Shuksan so keep this in mind and consider a high camp. You don't want to down climb class 4 rock, cross 3 glaciers and down climb more class 4 rock in the dark...

Most people will approach the summit Pyramid using the Fisher Chimneys Route (III, Class 4) to gain the base of the summit Pyramid. Other options include; The Sulfide Glacier Route (II), the White Salmon Glacier Route (II), or any other of several routes that gets you there. Both of those routes can be found here on Mountain Project along with several other options.

If approaching via Fisher Chimneys most parties will want to bivy at Winnie's Slide so as to not risk having to downclimb Fisher Chimneys in the dark after a long summit day. Very fit, fast & light parties may consider a bivy at the very aesthetic Lake Ann with views of Shuksan that will make you think you're in the Swiss Alps. Endurance athletes will easily climb car to car in less than a day. There's scenic free car camping off the highway between Mt. Baker Ski Resort and the town of Glacier along the river for those that want to camp before or after the climb and I highly recommend this for anyone with a very long drive. But don't leave camping gear along the highway or it'll get swiped.

If approaching from the Winnie's Slide on the West the White Salmon, Upper Curtis & Sulfide Glaciers are all crossed. The glacier travel is moderate with some significant crevasses if you get off route and the glaciers can get icy late season.

Once below the summit Pyramid, scramble around bergshrunds to the base of your climb at a notch on the lower part of the Southeast Ridge about 100' feet above the base of the Pyramid.

Glacier travel / rescue gear for your chosen approach route. Many choose to climb the Pyramid un-roped if your skill level is proficient on the terrain and conditions allow. The rock quality is very good, the exposure is relatively low for a mountain and none of the moves are totally vertical. If you wish to protect the route, double length slings to protect the ridge is all you need if you're proficient with simul climbing or terrain belay anchors. This route is not run out and the pro is bomber. Optional pro to 1.5" to sew up the route and if you don't wish to use terrain anchors (horns); Tricams are best, nuts or cams will all place easily on the bomber rock and it's easy to sew it up if you choose to. Cams should be considered with caution because of possible wet cracks year round and substantial weight penalty.

The route starts out class 3 then class 4 and only has a few low class 5 moves but is exposed for a few moves.

A 60 meter rope to rappel the standard gully will reach all belay stations as of 7/18/18. A shorter rope would work if you're willing to down climb between stations (I've used both a 50m and a 30m on separate occasions but I don't recommend anything shorter than a full 60 meters). Early season you may need to setup your own rap stations or replace old ones so consider bringing the materials for this ie tubular webbing and rap rings.