Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 48.506, -121.051 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,326 total · 769/month
Shared By: Mike McL on Jun 3, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

Boston Basin lies within the heart of Washington's stunning North Cascades. The big attraction here is Forbidden Peak, particularly its West Ridge, which is included among Steck and Roper's 50 Classics. Other draws here include Sahale Peak, Boston Peak, Mount Buckner, Mount Torment, and Sharkfin Tower.

The objectives here are truly alpine, and most require some snow and/or glacier travel. Be prepared for inclement weather. This is the Cascades, right?

If you're not going car-to-car, permits are required to camp in Boston Basin.

For permit information, contact:

nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/…

Wilderness Information Center
7280 Ranger Station Road
Marblemount, WA 98267
Phone: (360) 854-7245

Fred Beckey wrote the definitive three-part guide to the Cascades. The Boston Basin area is covered in Volume II. Jim Nelson's and Peter Potterfield's "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" (Volumes I and II) is also a great series.

Getting There

Driving directions: From Seattle, take I-5 North. Exit in Burlington for WA 20 East, which becomes the North Cascades Highway. Drive about 50 miles east to Marblemount. Make a right in Marblemount onto Cascade River Road. Drive 21.7 miles (according to the guidebook) on Cascade River Road. There's a small pullout on your left directly opposite Johannesburg Mountain. Park here. If you've gone to the end of the road, you've gone too far.

The approach to Boston Basin starts directly from the parking pullout. After a short while, the trail climbs very steeply uphill and is very eroded. Stay on the trail, crossing several streams. Continue switchbacking uphill until out of the trees. Boston Basin lies at about 5700' . Campsites and a composting toilet (best crap you'll ever take) are located in Boston Basin. Several options for campsites are available.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Boston Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Steep Snow
 6
North Face
Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow PG13
 34
Quien Sabe Glacier
Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 3
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
 20
Southeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow
 21
Sahale Glacier
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 10
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
 141
West Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
 25
Torment-Forbidden Traverse
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
 7
North Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 33
East Ridge Direct
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
NW Face
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Southeast Face
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Face Mt Buckner
 6
Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
Quien Sabe Glacier Sahale Peak
 34
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine
North Ridge Aiguille de l'M
 3
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Southeast Ridge Sharkfin Tower
 20
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Sahale Glacier Sahale Peak
 21
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
South Ridge Mt Torment
 10
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
West Ridge Forbidden Peak
 141
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Torment-Forbidden Traverse Mt Torment
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
North Ridge Forbidden Peak
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
East Ridge Direct Forbidden Peak
 33
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
NW Face Forbidden Peak
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Southeast Face Sharkfin Tower
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Boston Basin »

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