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Routes in Sahale Peak

Quien Sabe Glacier 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow PG13
Sahale Glacier T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow
Type: Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,966 total, 31/month
Shared By: Josh Lewis on Oct 18, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

From Boston Basin, ascend along the left (North) side of the Quien Sabe glacier until you reach the base of Sharkfin Tower between the summits of Sahale and Boston Peak. Traverse South along the base of the rock face until you reach the col. The glacier is steeper here and be sure to watch for crevasses. Traverse exposed snow to reach the loose class 3 summit scramble. Watch out for a cornice that lasts into early summer.

Location

From Marblemount, drive east on Cascade River road 21.7 miles to the fork. At 3200 feet, follow the abandoned Diamond Mine road for .75 miles and then follow the trail across 4 stream crossings over the next half mile. There are camping sites at a little over 5000 feet and 6000 feet with compost toilets. To get to the basin it is a 3 hour hike on a unmaintained climbers trail. Boston Basin is a very popular location for climbers because of its beautiful scenery and alpine grandeur.

Protection

A few Slings for the 4th/Mod 5th class summit block, maybe a few pickets for the steeper snow sections.
Jacob Wolniewicz
Seattle, WA
  4th
Jacob Wolniewicz   Seattle, WA
  4th
Not sure why its listed as PG 13. The 4th class rock portion eats up pro. Either bring one or two small cams or nuts. You could easily find horns to sling too if you don't want to carry gear up. Aug 14, 2017
SpencerB BB
Pasadena, CA
 
SpencerB BB   Pasadena, CA
 
We chose to descend via the Sahale glacier instead of reversing the route and I would recommend doing the climb this way. It makes for a nice loop and probably a much easier descent since it is a much smaller and less crevassed glacier and the hiking trail down to the Sahale arm and back to the trail head is much easier than the trail up to the base of the Quien Sabe glacier. Jul 27, 2016