Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
While this ridge climb is relatively short and without much in the way of technical difficulty, it follows solid rock and is in a breathtaking position with views of Buckner, Boston, Sahale, and Johannesberg during the climb, then a 360-degree summit panorama adding in Forbidden, Eldorado, and a sea of other peaks further away.
P1: From the notch, skirt the ridge to climber's right on large blocks, then follow a dihedral up a couple moves to the ridge and a belay.
P2: Follow solid rock on the ridge proper with good gear.
P3: Scramble at or slightly right of the ridge to the summit.
To descend, scramble back to the top of pitch 2, rap that pitch, then scramble over to a large block above the notch and rap again.