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Southeast Ridge

5.0, Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 41 votes
FA: Wesley Grande, Jay Todd, Joseph Vance - August 1947
Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Boston Basin > Sharkfin Tower

Description

While this ridge climb is relatively short and without much in the way of technical difficulty, it follows solid rock and is in a breathtaking position with views of Buckner, Boston, Sahale, and Johannesberg during the climb, then a 360-degree summit panorama adding in Forbidden, Eldorado, and a sea of other peaks further away.

P1: From the notch, skirt the ridge to climber's right on large blocks, then follow a dihedral up a couple moves to the ridge and a belay.
P2: Follow solid rock on the ridge proper with good gear.
P3: Scramble at or slightly right of the ridge to the summit.

To descend, scramble back to the top of pitch 2, rap that pitch, then scramble over to a large block above the notch and rap again.

Location

From the end of the approach at the notch, gain the ridge on P1 and stay on it from that point to the summit.

Protection

Light rack to 2.5"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approach as viewed from base camp.
[Hide Photo] Approach as viewed from base camp.
Sharkfin approach gully and notch to SE ridge
[Hide Photo] Sharkfin approach gully and notch to SE ridge
Overlay for Southeast Ridge of Sharkfin Tower.
[Hide Photo] Overlay for Southeast Ridge of Sharkfin Tower.
Nearing the top of P2
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top of P2
Rap anchors tagged. One 60m rope necessary.
[Hide Photo] Rap anchors tagged. One 60m rope necessary.
Schrundy moat thing opened on the normal route. Good rock work around (that bumps the rock grade up a few levels) to left shown here ending at tat covered rap station.
[Hide Photo] Schrundy moat thing opened on the normal route. Good rock work around (that bumps the rock grade up a few levels) to left shown here ending at tat covered rap station.