Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Nelson, Jim Martin, Kit Lewis, Bill Liddell, Dave Bale - 1990
Page Views: 3,222 total · 32/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

The Southeast Face of Sharkfin Tower has solid granite, fun moves, and an unbeatable position.

P1: Step onto a detached block, then work up a widening seam, starting with fingers, then ring-locks. Protection is good once the crack gets wide enough for fingers. The seam zig-zags a bit, just left of the arete. Follow it to the two-bolt anchor in a notch on the ridge.

P2: From the bolted belay, traverse left past two bolts and then choose your own adventure on the face. Gear is somewhat sparse and often best in thin cracks or horizontal seams. The upper section has more lichen and will be better if it cleans up more.

To descend, follow the beta for the Southeast Ridge.

Location

On the clean Southeast Face of Sharkfin Tower, visible from the notch at the base of the Southeast Ridge. Climb the first two pitches of the ridge and find a fixed anchor to rap from. Make two 75' raps, keeping in mind the notes from the section above on protection with respect to anchors.

Protection

Single/light rack with gear to 2" and some runners.

A fixed anchor exists at the top of the route. Rap from this or build your own anchor to rap from since you'll be back. There is a two-bolt belay at the top of P1, but there are no chains or rap rings, so you'll leave gear here to rap down to the base of the climb. There is no anchor at the base of P1 (a bolt with no hanger exists), so build your own anchor for the belayer here.

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