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Northwest Ridge
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British R
Avg: 2.5 from 4
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Boyce-Willis July 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,144 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Jan 15, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
This is a dubious ridge best suited for the anti-social alpine hermit. Rock is rarely good, routefinding is constant, gear is scarce and logistics complex. That being said, it provides some of the most excellent views in the cascades, with forbidden and J-Berg taunting you. Expect a remarkable journey, not remarkable climbing. Detailed descriptions will likely confuse more than aid. Pitch count will vary with how much you solo. I think we were roped for a half dozen or so pitches. Follow your nose and stay close to the ridge crest. Memory fails me but expect 3-5 rappels en route to navigate the many gendarmes. We threaded our rope directly through 5-6mm cord, bring tat and rings if you so desire. Descend the standard rappel route down the south face.
Location
We started from the base of sharkfin. From here we traversed snow to the broad start of the ridge. Its hard to say exactly where you would consider the "Start" to be, but travel on the brilliant silver rock and trend towards the ridge crest. Follow whatever looks appealing mostly south of the ridgecrest or on it. We traversed a 1000' or so of low fifth class before hitting a gendarme and roping up.
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