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Routes in Aiguille de l'M

North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 360 total, 9/month
Shared By: Chris S on Jul 20, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

The North Ridge starts at the obvious col between the Aiguille and the Torment-Forbidden ridge. 2-3 pitches of almost-level ridge climbing can be pitched out, simul-climbed, or short-roped (3rd class). A single 4th class pitch, 50-60', is the route's crux. A shorter 4th class ridge pitch gains the summit.

Descent is by down climbing to the top of the steep pitch, where rappel slings wait in a great position. Then retrace your steps across the level ridge to the col.

Location

The North Ridge is the obvious righthand skyline as seen from low or high camp in Boston Basin.

Protection

Other than the sole rappel sling, there is no fixed gear or anchors on this route. A light alpine rack should suffice.

Photos

BGardner
Seattle, WA
BGardner   Seattle, WA
Fun little route. A bit of loose rock but it is cleaning up.

I know in these times of sticky rubber and higher climbing standards the line between 4th class and easy 5th is very blurry. That said, I'd have to call the final pitch 5.5. Your definitely pulling a few moves in there.

For decent we were able to rappel off the ridge back into Boston Basin. One 60 meter rope just got us to the nice ledge. We were able to squeeze behind the one remaining snow chunk and then walk easy ground back to the packs. It was mid-August so earlier in the season you'd most likely need to cross some steep snow. Aug 27, 2014