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Routes in Mt. Shuksan

Beckey-Schmidtke T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI1-2 Steep Snow
Fisher Chimneys T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
North Face Mod. Snow
Price Glacier Route Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3-4 Steep Snow
SW Couloir and Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c WI2-3
Southeast Ridge aka SE Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow
Sulphide Glacier Route 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
White Salmon Glacier Easy Snow
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Description

This beautiful peak lies slightly northeast of Mt. Baker. It is one of the most photographed peaks in America.

Getting There

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Shuksan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Merlin
Grand Junction
Merlin   Grand Junction
Coming when? Mar 14, 2009
John VanBoxtel
Portland, OR
John VanBoxtel   Portland, OR
Here is some information gleaned from other websites:

The mountain is a huge, sprawling mass of ridges, pinnacles, and glaciers, almost its own sub-range. Although the rugged northern side of the peak gives it its fame, the easiest route to the summit climbs the vast Sulphide Glacier from the south, starting a long, long way from the Mount Baker Highway. The Sulphide Glacier rolls right up to the 700-foot high jagged summit pyramid, an easy scramble on steep, loose rock. In early season, the Sulphide is a great ski run.

The easiest and most popular northern route is the Fisher Chimneys route, a devious path winding its way up the north and west slopes of the peak that can be a routefinding challenge but is mostly class 3 climbing or easier. Other routes can be very difficult, including serious ice climbing on the spectacular hanging glaciers that line the peaks frontage to the deep cirque of the Nooksack River.

Getting There:
Fisher Chimneys route: Drive State Route 542 from Bellingham to the Mt. Baker ski area. Continue on gravel road about 1½ miles upward to the parking lot at Austin Pass, 4,700 ft (1,433 m). Hike trail #600 to Lake Ann.

Sulphide Glacier route: Drive State Route 20 east from Interstate 5 at Burlington. Turn left on the Baker Lake-Grandy Lake road and drive 23 miles to just opposite Shannon Creek Campground. Turn left on road No. 1152 and drive 4.5 miles. Turn right on road (1152)014 and drive another 1.4 miles to the end of the road, 2,500 ft (762 m). Hike the trail on an old logging road bed to the end in a brush-covered clearcut. Hike the trail steeply up onto Shannon Ridge above into the virgin forest. Follow this trail in forest to the open ridge with views of Mt. Baker. Then hike the ridge to its end below a pass that leads onto the southern flank of Mt. Shuksan. Apr 29, 2009
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Why is Mt. Triumph in the Mt. Shuksan section? If it's description refers to the same Triumph I'm thinking of, it's nowhere near Shuksan... May 14, 2009

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