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Routes in Shuksan- North West

Fisher Chimneys T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
North Face Mod. Snow
White Salmon Glacier Easy Snow
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Type: Snow, Alpine, 5500 ft
FA: Fasset, Hanft, Thompson
Page Views: 3,819 total · 49/month
Shared By: Scott Perkins on Feb 16, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

A fun route when conditions on the approach are prime(snow covering the low brush and creek). This route can be done r/t in one long day, or at a more moderate pace with a nice bivy overlooking Price Lake. It is also a popular descent route for climbers ascending the Price Glacier route.
The schrund at the bottom of the face can open up late season and bar easy/safe access to the face. If this is encountered one can climb a left leaning snow gully to join part-way up the face.
The route itself is very straightforoward and climbs +/- 45 degree snow until it may steepen to 50 degrees just before topping out onto the shoulder between the Crystal and Hanging Glacier.
A number of routes lead to the top of the summit pyramid(see summit pyramid routes).

Location

Follow Mount Baker hwy to the town of Glacier(last stop for beer). On the outskirts of town is the Park Service Ranger Station, obtain backcountry permits here. Permits are free of charge but are required for travel into Shuksan. Continue up Mount Baker Hwy to a small pull-off at White Salmon Lodge. Do not block gate. Walk around the gate and follow the road past the lodge until the road ends at an old clearcut area.
If there is good snow cover(ideal) descend northeast down to White Salmon Creek and enjoy a leasurely hike towards the toe of the White Salmon Glacier. Beware of large avalanches from the very active Hanging Glacier that can sweep this entire here. From this point you can head up to the gully that angles up and left onto the N Face, or, continue up to the shoulder near the foot of the North Face at 5,500ft. Excellent bivy sights here with good views down into Price Lake.
If there is not good snow cover on the approach DO NOT hike down into the WS Creek valley, hold elevation when entering the clear cut area and contour around, surrendering elevation as needed to avoid rock bands and stream crossings. This brings you to the base of WS Glacier and options above for accessing North Face and bivy sites.

Descent: Reverse the climbing route, or descend the White Salmon Glacier. I prefer the WS Descent as it gives you exposure to new terrain on both ascent and descent.

Protection

Crampons, ax, crevasse rescue gear. 2nd tool and ice screws in late season/fall. May want a light rock rack depending on Summit Pyramid route chosen.

Photos

Chris C.
Seattle, WA
 
Chris C.   Seattle, WA
 
The full account of my climb:
gethighonaltitude.com/2017/…

I have trouble imagining how a mere mortal like myself can summit by this route in a single day. We gained the base of the North Face via the Fisher Chimneys and descended via the FC route as well. It took us 3 days, with the 3rd day being relatively casual. Squeezing it into 2 would have made for a long 2nd day though.

Day 1:
Arrive to the parking lot
Climb the Fisher Chimneys
Move down the glacier to the base of the North Face, camp

Day 2:
Ascend the North Face
Cross the Crystal and Sulphide glaciers to the base of the summit pyramid
Climb the summit Pyramid
Descend Hell's Highway
Camp above the Fisher Chimneys

Day 3:
Exit
Go to Taco Bell

Long story short, unless you are one of the people who is doing the North Ridge of Baker car to car in 10 hours, plan for at least a couple days here. Aug 22, 2017

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