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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Royal and Liz Robbins, 1966
Page Views: 4,037 total, 33/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

Great route that is not for the meek or inexperienced. Loose rock is found on the first two pitches, but it's not a horror show.

P1- Climb the nice, steep face to the obvious ledge. Belay below the right facing corner.

P2- A good pitch; keep a watchful eye out for loose rock. Climb the right facing corner and traverse a few feet under the overhang. Climb up and left over the hang via some exciting moves. Continue straight up past more questionable stone to the GT and a short, right-facing corner.

P3- Wild and committing! Up the short corner, then traverse under the overhang. Begin the grunt-fest by pulling the overhang at a short left facing corner. Continue up to the Shockley's Ceiling belay.

From the top, descend via a bolted rappel line over Strictly From Nowhere.

Location

15 feet right of PR and about 50 feet right of Shockley's Ceiling.

Protection

Standard rack to 3".
Heng  
P1+P2 can be combined very easily w/o rope drag or major communication issues.

A left-hand hold on a thin flake broke off right at the P2 overhang crux move. The move is now a bit reachier and more balancy/delicate; more of that flake may brake off if folks use it to yank hard on it. Nov 20, 2016
Sawyerdougz  
 
Great route, the first pitch is R but no harder than 5.8. The rest is G. May 2, 2015
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
 
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
 
Held off on this one for quite some time and was a wee bit disappointed. That's what I get for having expectations! Pitch one has really nice face climbing with a bit o' run out. Pitch two has a fun roof(hard for the grade) and then 40' of climbing on suspect rock with some opportunities to move onto even more suspect rock. Pitch 3 is a blast! Jul 24, 2014
carl al
  5.9 PG13
carl al  
  5.9 PG13
Nice climb, the 3rd pitch roof is bold but has bomber protection at the crux, if you're willing to hang out and place it. First pitch has some runout in the mid section but on good holds. thought it was pg overall. Jul 7, 2014
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Glad you enjoyed it... spend a bit more time traveling the planet:) Oct 22, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This is one of the best 9's on the planet. Full of variety; face, roofs, traverses and one major commitment on P3. It's ballsy alright, but, tons of fun. May 25, 2009
eric larson
aurora, co
  5.9+
eric larson   aurora, co
  5.9+
be very very careful when topping out the 2nd pitch.. there is a huge loose rock that is just asking to be pulled on... A, it will scare the shit out of you when you pull on it and it rocks.. and B if it does fall it would take out your belayer.. so, as always in the gunks, use caution.

that being said, pitch 3 has yet another gunks classic ceiling! Bring out the balls of steel and iron ovaries for this one! Apr 16, 2008