Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||419 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Simon Thompson on Jul 24, 2019 · Updates|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Climb the left side of the starting flake/block and make some dirty 5.7 moves up onto a dirty slab. My friend Ryan, who led this pitch, exclaimed that this was “gardening, not climbing!” Work slightly left and then back right into a cruxy orange alcove/scoop/tips crack below a hanging cedar. Make more cruxy moves on the small face just right of the cedar and continue up to good stances and small ledges below some intermittent overhangs above. Find a way past/around the first two overhangs and then up the fun grey rock to yet another cruxy move just before the NSGT ledge where a semi-hanging belay can be found. 5.9 PG IMO
P2: Work up past many overlaps with runout gear on 5.9 or 5.10 moves and some loose rock. Climb basically up and slightly left until the last overhang where a bulge above forces you to traverse 9’ left and then mantle using dirty but good holds. Continue up and left onto slabby rock to a large tree at the top. 5.10a PG/R
From Grease Gun Groove, walk to climbers' left for a minute or so. Look for a 8’ high detached block/flake 15’ up from the trail, just past Lonely Challenge. If you arrive at Elder Cleavage you have gone too far.
Bring a full range of cams and nuts. I used a #1, 2, 3, and 4 on the last pitch. There are crucial small(finger and below) cam placements on both pitches. We brought a bunch of crap and used less than half but were glad to have a wide selection.