Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||708 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Simon Thompson on Jul 24, 2019 · Updates|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
P1: Climb the left side of the starting flake/block and make some dirty 5.7 moves up onto a dirty slab. My friend Ryan, who led this pitch, exclaimed that this was “gardening, not climbing!” Work slightly left and then back right into a cruxy orange alcove/scoop/tips crack below a hanging cedar. Make more cruxy moves on the small face just right of the cedar and continue up to good stances and small ledges below some intermittent overhangs above. Find a way past/around the first two overhangs and then up the fun grey rock to yet another cruxy move just before the NSGT ledge where a semi-hanging belay can be found. 5.9 PG IMO
P2: Work up past many overlaps with runout gear on 5.9 or 5.10 moves and some loose rock. Climb basically up and slightly left until the last overhang where a bulge above forces you to traverse 9’ left and then mantle using dirty but good holds. Continue up and left onto slabby rock to a large tree at the top. 5.10a PG/R
From Grease Gun Groove, walk to climbers' left for a minute or so. Look for a 8’ high detached block/flake 15’ up from the trail, just past Lonely Challenge. If you arrive at Elder Cleavage you have gone too far.
Bring a full range of cams and nuts. I used a #1, 2, 3, and 4 on the last pitch. There are crucial small(finger and below) cam placements on both pitches. We brought a bunch of crap and used less than half but were glad to have a wide selection.