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Routes in c. Grease Gun to Closure
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bee Bite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Carlos Buhler's Day Off T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nice Job T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Predator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Princess Leia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Things That Go Hump in The Night T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wildmere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 41.73133, -74.19755 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 125 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkiemike on Oct 8, 2024 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Chris Vultaggio, M Santisi |
Description
This is the Shrodinger's Cat of routes: it earns "really fine climbing" and "horrible route" at the same time. Ah, if only one could just climb the nice crack and skip the dirty, sketchy blocky bit above.
Location
Just as the trail descends towards the Elder C and Up Yours base area. Look for the crack in the RF corner. Climb straight up from there, plugging all your big cams (3... then the 4... then the 5) as you go. The 60 ft of broken rock above the good climbing will test your nerves as you search out solid rock to plug gear into. Disclaimer - I may have stayed in the broken corner longer than necessary, at least that what's suggested by the route photo in the books (which show a break out left onto what might be more solid, though still dirty, rock)..
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