Type: Trad
FA: Joe Bridges, Barbara Hart and Dick Williams, 1991
Page Views: 1,024 total · 17/month
Shared By: JSH on Dec 31, 2013 with updates from Kurtz
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

The entire route is rated 5.7 PG/R, but the first pitch is a nice, well-protected 5.6 that is worthy of attention.

P1: Establish yourself onto the left-leaning, right-facing ramp, and make a few steep moves by a crack to get up into the right-facing corner capped by a roof above. Step left to escape the roof, then up the face to the ledge and rap station (50'). 5.6, G (but no gear until you've mounted the ramp)

P2: From the ledge, find the line of least resistance, to continue up another 40 ft. to another tree rappel station. The easiest path wanders left and right through the lichen. Protection is scarce, so do not pass up an opportunity to place something. A 60m rope gets you down in one rappel. 5.7, PG/R

Location

Walking away from Grease Gun Groove, look for a left-leaning but right-facing ramp that leads to a crack, whispering "climb me!" and obey it.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

The first pitch bulge is a 5.6 joy, especially. Totally worth it. The second pitch has a 17-20 foot run-out from one placement to the next, and for a new 5.7 leader it's a bit spooky--though all the holds are there. I on-sighted it today 1 Oct 2015 and ran both pitches together easily. Oct 2, 2015
JSH

5.7
JSH    
5.7
If the intermediate anchor were better, I'd list the route as 5.6 and just describe the first pitch -- it deserves it. The second pitch, not so much. Oct 2, 2015
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
I've done p1 a few times. I think it is 5.7. Jul 4, 2016