All Locations > New York > Gunks > Near Trapps > b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…

Fat and Weak

Name: Fat and Weak
Rating: 2.3

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

L › R R › L A › Z

	5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Birdbrain T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Boogey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
	El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
	Predator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Princess Leia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slammin' T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	To Be Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wildmere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	Trad
FA:	Joe Bridges, Barbara Hart and Dick Williams, 1991
Page Views:	1,982 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Dec 31, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	RJ B, Morgan Patterson Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

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Description

The entire route is rated 5.7 PG/R, but the first pitch is a nice, well-protected 5.6 that is worthy of attention.

P1: Establish yourself onto the left-leaning, right-facing ramp, and make a few steep moves by a crack to get up into the right-facing corner capped by a roof above. Step left to escape the roof, then up the face to the ledge and rap station (50'). 5.6, G (but no gear until you've mounted the ramp)

P2: From the ledge, find the line of least resistance, to continue up another 40 ft. to another tree rappel station. The easiest path wanders left and right through the lichen. Protection is scarce, so do not pass up an opportunity to place something. A 60m rope gets you down in one rappel. 5.7, PG/R