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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X |
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Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Predator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Princess Leia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slammin' T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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To Be Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wildmere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 329 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Simon Thompson on Mar 12, 2020 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
We found the purple Dick guidebook description to be a little confusing. It’s easy enough to find your way as long as you have a few clues. The route goes almost straight up. The roof pitch is fun and exciting but the other dirty climbing is a heavy price to pay. The climbing up to the not-so-GT ledge would actually be pretty nice without all the lichen.
Climb vegetated rock straight up past a dead tree wedged between two other trees (hard not to use it.) Wander up a slab to a slippery ledge, step right, climb the face and nose in orange-white rock to some small C3 placements below an overhang. Pull the overhang and then move basically straight up for 12’~ to a stance (5.10- PG/R.)
Continue up the lichen-covered face above, almost straight up and a tad bit right, shooting for successive pine trees. Along the way you will encounter: some small overlaps, a few loose blocks, generally solid rock, and maybe a couple of 5.7 moves. Arrive at the not-so-GT Ledge and belay at the obvious pine. If you combine this pitch with the first (recommended) it’s about a 200’ pitch.
Next pitch: Step a bit left of the tree and climb a face with overlaps toward the obvious protruding block and short right-facing corner above and to the left. Work up into the alcove/corner (#5 Camalot helpful, other gear available) and then climb out to another horizontal that is dirtier and takes less gear. Fire out past the lip to a bomber jug that eats a #3 and presumably a #2. Make a standard 5.10a pull-up and mantle move and you’re done. Except...
Climb up more dirty rock and grassy/thorny ledges to some gear placements and a vague grassy ledge. Several exits are possible but we moved 20’ right and belayed. Done this way you then pretty much have to do another 60’ pitch of unpleasant 4th/5.easy to gain the top of the cliff.
Climb vegetated rock straight up past a dead tree wedged between two other trees (hard not to use it.) Wander up a slab to a slippery ledge, step right, climb the face and nose in orange-white rock to some small C3 placements below an overhang. Pull the overhang and then move basically straight up for 12’~ to a stance (5.10- PG/R.)
Continue up the lichen-covered face above, almost straight up and a tad bit right, shooting for successive pine trees. Along the way you will encounter: some small overlaps, a few loose blocks, generally solid rock, and maybe a couple of 5.7 moves. Arrive at the not-so-GT Ledge and belay at the obvious pine. If you combine this pitch with the first (recommended) it’s about a 200’ pitch.
Next pitch: Step a bit left of the tree and climb a face with overlaps toward the obvious protruding block and short right-facing corner above and to the left. Work up into the alcove/corner (#5 Camalot helpful, other gear available) and then climb out to another horizontal that is dirtier and takes less gear. Fire out past the lip to a bomber jug that eats a #3 and presumably a #2. Make a standard 5.10a pull-up and mantle move and you’re done. Except...
Climb up more dirty rock and grassy/thorny ledges to some gear placements and a vague grassy ledge. Several exits are possible but we moved 20’ right and belayed. Done this way you then pretty much have to do another 60’ pitch of unpleasant 4th/5.easy to gain the top of the cliff.
Location
A few climbs right of Yum Yum Yab Yum.
Start below a short jagged crack and blocky overlaps leading to a short right-facing corner and then slab. Currently there is a dead tree wedged between two other trees at about 20’. Directly above you should see an orange and white face/scoop below an overhang about 60’ up. This is what you’re aiming for.
Start below a short jagged crack and blocky overlaps leading to a short right-facing corner and then slab. Currently there is a dead tree wedged between two other trees at about 20’. Directly above you should see an orange and white face/scoop below an overhang about 60’ up. This is what you’re aiming for.
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