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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdbrain T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boogey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Predator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Princess Leia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slammin' T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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To Be Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wildmere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 570 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Simon Thompson on Mar 12, 2020 |
| Admins: | RJ B, Morgan Patterson |
Your Star Rating:
Description
We found the purple Dick guidebook description to be a little confusing. It’s easy enough to find your way as long as you have a few clues. The route goes almost straight up. The roof pitch is fun and exciting but the other dirty climbing is a heavy price to pay. The climbing up to the not-so-GT ledge would actually be pretty nice without all the lichen.
Climb vegetated rock straight up past a dead tree wedged between two other trees (hard not to use it.) Wander up a slab to a slippery ledge, step right, climb the face and nose in orange-white rock to some small C3 placements below an overhang. Pull the overhang and then move basically straight up for 12’~ to a stance (5.10- PG/R.)
Continue up the lichen-covered face above, almost straight up and a tad bit right, shooting for successive pine trees. Along the way you will encounter: some small overlaps, a few loose blocks, generally solid rock, and maybe a couple of 5.7 moves. Arrive at the not-so-GT Ledge and belay at the obvious pine. If you combine this pitch with the first (recommended) it’s about a 200’ pitch.
Next pitch: Step a bit left of the tree and climb a face with overlaps toward the obvious protruding block and short right-facing corner above and to the left. Work up into the alcove/corner (#5 Camalot helpful, other gear available) and then climb out to another horizontal that is dirtier and takes less gear. Fire out past the lip to a bomber jug that eats a #3 and presumably a #2. Make a standard 5.10a pull-up and mantle move and you’re done. Except...
Climb up more dirty rock and grassy/thorny ledges to some gear placements and a vague grassy ledge. Several exits are possible but we moved 20’ right and belayed. Done this way you then pretty much have to do another 60’ pitch of unpleasant 4th/5.easy to gain the top of the cliff.
Climb vegetated rock straight up past a dead tree wedged between two other trees (hard not to use it.) Wander up a slab to a slippery ledge, step right, climb the face and nose in orange-white rock to some small C3 placements below an overhang. Pull the overhang and then move basically straight up for 12’~ to a stance (5.10- PG/R.)
Continue up the lichen-covered face above, almost straight up and a tad bit right, shooting for successive pine trees. Along the way you will encounter: some small overlaps, a few loose blocks, generally solid rock, and maybe a couple of 5.7 moves. Arrive at the not-so-GT Ledge and belay at the obvious pine. If you combine this pitch with the first (recommended) it’s about a 200’ pitch.
Next pitch: Step a bit left of the tree and climb a face with overlaps toward the obvious protruding block and short right-facing corner above and to the left. Work up into the alcove/corner (#5 Camalot helpful, other gear available) and then climb out to another horizontal that is dirtier and takes less gear. Fire out past the lip to a bomber jug that eats a #3 and presumably a #2. Make a standard 5.10a pull-up and mantle move and you’re done. Except...
Climb up more dirty rock and grassy/thorny ledges to some gear placements and a vague grassy ledge. Several exits are possible but we moved 20’ right and belayed. Done this way you then pretty much have to do another 60’ pitch of unpleasant 4th/5.easy to gain the top of the cliff.
Location
A few climbs right of Yum Yum Yab Yum.
Start below a short jagged crack and blocky overlaps leading to a short right-facing corner and then slab. Currently there is a dead tree wedged between two other trees at about 20’. Directly above you should see an orange and white face/scoop below an overhang about 60’ up. This is what you’re aiming for.
Start below a short jagged crack and blocky overlaps leading to a short right-facing corner and then slab. Currently there is a dead tree wedged between two other trees at about 20’. Directly above you should see an orange and white face/scoop below an overhang about 60’ up. This is what you’re aiming for.
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