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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Art Gran and Joe Kelsey, 1965
Page Views: 983 total · 14/month
Shared By: BrianRH on Apr 30, 2012 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Head up the open book on the left to start, then up the face on the right to a small birch tree. Step right and go up to the obvious left-facing corner. Follow that up to a roof on the right. Move right, and head for the ledge with the pine tree that used to be the rap station. It is still there but is now perpendicular to the cliff. Anchor here, but transfer another 20-30 feet right to another rap station to descend (2013).

It looks kind of bushy from the ground so is easily passed over, but turns out to be a very nice pitch for the grade.

P1 is 80 ft. but P2 and P3 add another 80 and 100 ft.

Location

After you've passed Birdland and Grease Gun Groove, keep walking until the trail heads just slightly uphill, then starts to head back down. The apex of the trail corresponds to an open book in the rock, and a very slabby left-leaning undercut crack (lower left of picture) formed by a block. The face left of and above this crack is Lonely Challenge - aim for the set of corners above leading to the tree on the ledge.

Protection

Standard rack.
Rap off the anchors on the tree about 25 feet to the right. above "Fat and Weak"/ Grey Gully.

Photos

Kurtz
  5.6
Kurtz  
  5.6
I thought P1 was pretty stiff for the grade. The birch tree is very short and now dead. We accepted the challenge and continued to the top, linking P2 and P3 in one 60m pitch. It was hard to tell where the official route went so I just followed the most "appealing" line and tried to drag my second over as much loose rock and lichen as possible. Alpine feel, indeed! Jul 24, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I thought this was a fun climb and worth doing to the top. P2 has an alpiney feel, some broken/suspect rock that can be easily avoided. P3 is great for a new leader, as you can bail right and stay in the 5.2 range the whole way. Pulling the roof is 5.5. Overall, it's a nice moderate climb that doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic. Gear is great all the way up. May 29, 2013