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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, Hans Kraus, 1942
Page Views: 1,980 total, 14/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 31, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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A high quality route just past Up Yours. I found the cruxes a little harder than the 5.5 guidebook rating but they are short and well protected. Loose rock isn't much of a problem although there is a little in the middle of the route; the cruxes are all clean and solid. Lots of good climbing. Finish with the last pitch of Up Yours / Horney for a more direct line and better climbing.

An obvious crack / corner system leads up the clean rock just left of Up Yours / Elder Cleavage. Do a long pitch up to the GT ledge and then on up.


Just left of Up Yours


Standard Gunks rack


- No Photos -
Started on Loose Goose, switched to the 5.8 crack climb, then finished on last pitch of Loose Goose. It's a fantastic line. All well protected and fun climbing.
Warning: At the "almost top", we saw a cable around a tree rap anchor to the right. A short walk along the ledge took us to the anchor. and with a single 70m rope, it didn't quite make it to the next rap tree anchor. We could put our feet down to a block above the right side of the ledge, then had to do a short downclimb to the ledge (about 4 feet). You may just make it if you have enough rope stretch. Remember to always tie knots at the end of your rap ropes! Oct 11, 2015
Boulder, CO
5.6 PG13
kswissto   Boulder, CO
5.6 PG13
P1 second crux has lots of loose blocks. You can work around them but be sure to test everything you're using (pro or holds). Oct 27, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I found this to be a fun, well protected climb with simple route finding. Not sure how you can get lost on this one.

5.8 variation is awesome and very well worth doing.

It's worth doing the remaining pitches. P2 is dirty, but super easy. P3 is a hoot! Fun, easy, juggy climbing leads to a steep head wall/top out. The headwall looks scary from below but the gear and holds are all there. Highly recommend p3. We had doubles; we rapped off the tree with cable down to the Bee Bite belay. Doubles, got us down to our packs.

Lots of fun, varied climbing on this climb. Not sure why it isn't a fan favorite. Certainly rivals the Trapps classics in this grade. Apr 22, 2014
I rope soloed this in December of '90 just as a storm was moving in. I was trying to go fast to get one last route in, and all went well until the last pitch when the storm hit and the rope froze to the wall! By the time I topped out I was the only climber and mine was the only car anywhere along the road. Sep 3, 2012
Neil Steinert
Neil Steinert   Hamilton
I did this one again this past Saturday (7/19/14). This is the 3rd time I've lead it and there is a very obvious 'open book' you can see from the ground. The first few times I did this climb, I thought that 'open book' was the 5.8 variation. Now that I've done the route a few times, I believe the open book is on route, but it is definitely not 5.6! I would say 5.7. I'm still unsure of where the 5.8 variation is, but it seems according to the Williams guide that the variation is left of the Loose Goose route. Jun 17, 2012
Meghan Spiro
Meghan Spiro  
One of the easier 5.6's in the Gunks. I agree with Spiro; good route for new leaders. Both cruxes are well protected. Easy scramble in the middle is run-out. Oct 9, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
I second or third that the 5.8 crack variation is worth it. I followed it today and had issues despite being a solid 5.9 follower. It's very pumpy for a few moves, and reachy. Aug 6, 2011
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
I initially commented to add that the 5.8 crack climb variation is well worth it but that has been added as a separate climb now...

reclimbed this 8/17/2013 and it does seem like a solid 5.6+ although the crux is short and as well protected as a crux can be. Was a bit harder than I remembered when I chose it as an introduction to outdoor climbing for a friend. The second crux is easier and equally well protected. Nov 22, 2010
Nothing Loose about the Goose. Good climbing at the grade on clean rock. After first crux you can safely examine the variation on Crack Climb (5.8* G, making the whole climb near 3* quality)...this variation is a great option, with a rest below the tuff stuff and adequate gear throughout (make haste). This option will send you up to the Swiss Air rappel (up and left of route terminus...about 120 feet, one 60m rappel will reach a 3/4th class gully scramble to the bottom of the cliff). Enjoy! Jul 14, 2009
Think this was a great 5.6, good for new leaders. Apr 4, 2009
New Williams' guidebook is out. It is excellent with a number of new moderate routes, get it! Williams rates LG as 5.6, two-star, PG rating, route as I described above. Nov 16, 2008
Josh Giblin
Philadelphia, PA
Josh Giblin   Philadelphia, PA
This route makes for a nice night climb as well. Oct 8, 2008
Repeated Loose Goose recently having first done it several years ago. The few moves at the crack in the LF dihedral 40 feet up seem to be solid 5.6. The hand crack corner up to the big pine tree rap station also seems to be solid 5.6. Both sections have excellent pro. Climbing on P2 and P3 is worthwhile in the 5.4 to 5.5 range.

When I first did the route I moved up and left for P2 and walked left and climbed up the big, dirty ramp/corner/break for P3. It was okay.

The way I did P2 and P3 the other day featured much better climbing. Move straight up from the P1 belay to the GT Ledge for P2 and then up, angling left around the big roofs for P3. Go straight up to the top, with a few demanding moves including a mantle finish. Move right 25 feet and scramble down to rap station ledge for rap. P2 is a bit licheny, P3 is clean. I didn't find loose rock on either pitch. Done this way it is well worth continuing beyond P1.

I will be interested to see Williams' route description and grade in the new Nears guide. Aug 18, 2007
Cory B  
Great route, though a little dirty. I also found the difficulty to be a little harder than 5.5. Jul 9, 2007