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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X |
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Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, Hans Kraus, 1942 |
| Page Views: | 2,056 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Mar 31, 2006 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description
A high quality route just past Up Yours. I found the cruxes a little harder than the 5.5 guidebook rating but they are short and well protected. Loose rock isn't much of a problem although there is a little in the middle of the route; the cruxes are all clean and solid. Lots of good climbing. Finish with the last pitch of Up Yours / Horney for a more direct line and better climbing.
An obvious crack / corner system leads up the clean rock just left of Up Yours / Elder Cleavage. Do a long pitch up to the GT ledge and then on up.
An obvious crack / corner system leads up the clean rock just left of Up Yours / Elder Cleavage. Do a long pitch up to the GT ledge and then on up.
Photos
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When I first did the route I moved up and left for P2 and walked left and climbed up the big, dirty ramp/corner/break for P3. It was okay.
The way I did P2 and P3 the other day featured much better climbing. Move straight up from the P1 belay to the GT Ledge for P2 and then up, angling left around the big roofs for P3. Go straight up to the top, with a few demanding moves including a mantle finish. Move right 25 feet and scramble down to rap station ledge for rap. P2 is a bit licheny, P3 is clean. I didn't find loose rock on either pitch. Done this way it is well worth continuing beyond P1.
I will be interested to see Williams' route description and grade in the new Nears guide. Aug 18, 2007
Philadelphia, PA
Jersey City, NJ
reclimbed this 8/17/2013 and it does seem like a solid 5.6+ although the crux is short and as well protected as a crux can be. Was a bit harder than I remembered when I chose it as an introduction to outdoor climbing for a friend. The second crux is easier and equally well protected. Nov 22, 2010
Upstate New York
Hamilton
Wayne, PA
5.8 variation is awesome and very well worth doing.
It's worth doing the remaining pitches. P2 is dirty, but super easy. P3 is a hoot! Fun, easy, juggy climbing leads to a steep head wall/top out. The headwall looks scary from below but the gear and holds are all there. Highly recommend p3. We had doubles; we rapped off the tree with cable down to the Bee Bite belay. Doubles, got us down to our packs.
Lots of fun, varied climbing on this climb. Not sure why it isn't a fan favorite. Certainly rivals the Trapps classics in this grade. Apr 22, 2014
Boulder, CO
Warning: At the "almost top", we saw a cable around a tree rap anchor to the right. A short walk along the ledge took us to the anchor. and with a single 70m rope, it didn't quite make it to the next rap tree anchor. We could put our feet down to a block above the right side of the ledge, then had to do a short downclimb to the ledge (about 4 feet). You may just make it if you have enough rope stretch. Remember to always tie knots at the end of your rap ropes! Oct 11, 2015