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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dick Williams, 1989
Page Views: 1,404 total · 16/month
Shared By: Misha Tselman on Jun 20, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Start with a short, steep and unprotected sequence at 5.8+ up to a lower-angled but still difficult slab. Climb the slab to easier ground above until you come to some loose-looking blocks under a steep light-colored face. Climb the short face (crux) to a ledge with a small pine tree, and make an anchor there. 

Use the bolted anchors over Grease Gun Groove to rappel.

Location

At a steep face, ~10' left of the bulge of Grease Gun Groove.

Protection

Crux is very well protected. The easier climbing at the start is unprotected at about 5.8.

Photos

BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.10+ PG13
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.10+ PG13
a nice one-move-wonder bouldery crux with fantastic gear at your chest. The unprotectable 5.8 start earns this a PG13. Great climb for those looking to tick a 5.10+ trad lead. Jun 29, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I have followed this climb twice in the last two weeks. It's a hard start for a short person (5'2"), but totally doable. I probably do the crux differently too. One move wonder...fun climb. Worth doing. May 29, 2013

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