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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: early 1960s
Page Views: 2,182 total · 23/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 28, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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1. Climb the first pitch of Loose Goose to a small ledge below a large crack. 5.6

2. Climb the crack above (you can't miss it) through two bulges (crux) to a stance. From there, it makes the most sense to traverse right about 30 feet to a pine tree and make one rappel (60 meter rope) back down as the climbing above the stance is neither hard nor interesting.

This can be done in one pitch.


Go left past Birdland for about 50 or 60 yards until the trail rises slightly and then levels off. You should be below a large amphitheater. Keep walking, down a little, then back up steeply for a short bit, until you come to a flat part of the trail with a pounded out area; this is perhaps 50 or 60 yards from the amphitheater. Your can orient yourself using the obvious start of Up Yours - Loose Goose starts just to the left - and you can see the crux crack about 100 feet up.


Standard 'Gunks rack plus a # 3 Camalot or its equivalent.


Chris Mamas
Runnemede, NJ
Chris Mamas   Runnemede, NJ
This is an amazing variation to Loose Goose. If you’re looking for a crack climb at the Gunks this is a must do. If you are trying to learn how to jam this is the climb for you, there is always a jug around if you need. It. Beware, there are a few loose blocks at the top and on the traverse. The traverse to the pine tree repel is easy (5.5ish) but protection is challenging. The only pro I was able to get in on the traverse was a #1 C3. Double up on #3 C4 or equivalent. You may be able to use a #4 C4 but I didn’t bring one up at the time. Jul 29, 2017
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
We did the 5.8 variation to Loose Goose. The crack was juggy, fun and ultimately committing. Need to go back and do it again. Lots of fun, well protected. Apr 22, 2014

NB: In the newest guide, Dick describes a different P1 for this route, starting 25' left of Loose Goose's P1. He says: climb crack (5.6, crux) and short slab to ledge, then up slab (5.4 R/X) a bit left of center, then head up and right to join Loose Goose at the ledge below the business (60'). Dec 31, 2013