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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad
FA: 1950s, unknown
Page Views: 176 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 19, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Climb straight up to the thin vertical seam that has, as of 2012, only one one vintage piton of dubious quality remaining as your only protection for this move. Climb up the seam (crux), move right and climb an easy roof, then move left to the edge of the face and climb past an overhang to the top, or move around the corner and up an easy face to the ledge.

Rappel from a tree over Fat and Weak, to climbers' right.

Location

Approximately 125 feet left of Grease Gun Groove, the trail rises a bit and there is a large amphitheater that is bordered on the left by a large corner and on the right by a short buttress with a pine tree on its top. The seam with the pitons is easily seen. This route is on the left arete before the corner of Lonely Challenge.

Protection

Very small nuts, e.g., RPs and/or tiny camming units. The pitons don't look very trustworthy.

Photos

SethG  
Gosh I'm glad I didn't read all of this negative talk before leading Back to the Future yesterday! Allow me to politely disagree with all of this negativity.

The crux face climbing is protected by nuts in the flake. I put in two good ones, I thought. The ancient relic of a piton is at a stance AFTER the moves. So I felt protected for the harder climbing, and there are face holds-- you don't need to worry about blocking the holds with your gear.

Up above, you cross over the roof (crux number two) and then you have a choice as to whether to go left or right. I thought the features matched the description in the guidebook. I chose to go up and left-- all the way to the left edge of the face-- to the fun pointed overhang. There is good gear just around the corner.

This climb ain't a classic, that's for sure, but it has three interesting parts. I wouldn't say it is G but neither is it a waste of time or a horror show. May 1, 2017
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
I don't know about the "pointy overhang" either. After the crux moves past the thin flake, I stepped right and then climbed more or less straight up to the belay ledge, with little if any protection. Definitely R, maybe X---I'm not sure how big the runout was or what is lurking below to collide with. But the moves above the crux flake were nowhere near 5.8. It's a little hard to be objective when you are near soloing, but I'd say somewhere in the 5.4--5.6 range, but steep enough to get into trouble fast if you don't keep things under control. Jul 4, 2016
JSH

JSH    
This route horrified my husband, who was onsighting 5.10 at the time. I was also horrified on TR. Not worth it, at all. Oct 2, 2015
Fun pitch but definitely NOT G rated. The gear to protect the moves up the thin flake is small and a bit sketchy; a classic case of, "Do I want to use this slot for a handhold or do I want to plug it up with gear?". And once past that difficulty, the last 25 feet were a complete mystery to me. Lacking a route photo in the guidebook, I was never sure which of the several overhangs up there was the "small pointy" hang that DW refers to. So I looked at going straight up (tight rock and no gear), then going right (lichen, rounded features, and no gear. Was I at the "unprotectable groove" that DW mentions?), then left toward the arete (steep tight rock and NO GEAR). Ended up going around the arete and finishing on the last few moves of Lonely Challenge. Once established on the ledge above, we all tried the moves up the arete (actually a foot or two right of it) past the final overhang. It was reachy 5.8ish and PG-at-best; for some reason we thought it should be easier. Re-reading the book for these routes, I don't know where we got that idea. Oct 2, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Not G. Dirty and not really that much fun. Apr 22, 2014
Dana Bartlett   CT
 
I agree with Brian. I did this again yesterday - third or fourth time, I believe. The protection for the crux is not far below you, but the cams and/or nuts are behind a rather small, thin flake and the placements are shallow, as well. It wouldn't be too surprising to see that flake snap off if someone fell on any gear that was placed behind it. Apr 16, 2012
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.8 PG13
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.8 PG13
definitely PG13... One of the two pitons (the downward facing one) that protected the crux is gone and the very uninspiring remaining piton is all you have with some small pieces below your feet. The difficulty eased above, but had some runout as well if you go straight up. Apr 16, 2012
chewtoynj   NJ
The tree at the top has fallen over, but lays on the ledge. traverse right for a better rap station. Jun 25, 2010
Michael G
  5.8 PG13
Michael G  
  5.8 PG13
There is a rap station. The climb ends on the 5.5/6 section of the route to the left (can't remember the name, but think its a 5.9 R). Aug 12, 2009
Eric8
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
Is there a rappel station or do you have to walk off? Aug 11, 2009
Michael G
  5.8 PG13
Michael G  
  5.8 PG13
It's called a "G" in the guidebook. I didn't see anything other than a half driven Lost Arrow at the crux. You've been warned. Jul 19, 2009