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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 195 total · 21/month
Shared By: SethG on Apr 24, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good 5.10 roof problem pitch just twenty feet left of the final pitch of Elder Cleavage.

Look up from the big ledge and spot the obvious "V" of rock in the underside of the big ceiling. This is your target.

Start pretty much directly underneath the V and a little to the right. Climb moderate rock up over a little bulge and past a left facing corner until you are underneath the V.

Make a committing move to get up into the V. There is good gear here but it is strenuous to place. I got pro right at the beginning, and then I reached out as far as I could and placed a small Alien before I committed to the traverse.

And then it is on! Traverse out the right side of the V. There are good holds and there is probably more gear but I didn't take the time to place it. When you can, reach up over the roof and get over it on sandy holds. Very exciting. Scramble to the top on easy, dirty rock.

Location

This route starts off the big ledge, twenty feet left of the third pitch of Elder Cleavage.

There is a dead/dying oak tree with a steel cable anchor around it atop the cliff. I would not use this anchor. I would do pitch three of Elder Cleavage, then put a cordalette around the big, healthy tree at the topout, rap down to the big ledge to do Boob Job, and then walk off.

Protection

Good gear for the easy climbing and also in the roof though it is strenuous to place, see above.

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