Mountain Project Logo

Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Goldner and Muriel Mayo, 1962
Page Views: 294 total, 8/month
Shared By: J. Serpico on Sep 30, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pitch 1: Climb the clean low angle quartz featured slab 10ft to the right of Yum Yum Yab Yum. Belay at the detached block below a small roof directly above. 5.5 (G), 60ft.

Pitch 2: (not recommended). Step right at the belay and climb around the roof on the right side (crux), through tufts of grass, briars, lichen, loose blocks and dirt. Continue climbing up the loose lichen covered face. Belay either at the 2nd belay ledge for Yum Yum (left) or continue up and belay 20ft higher on a small dirty ledge. 5.7 (PG/R), 80-100ft.

Pitch 3 (recommended): From Yum Yum belay climb straight up, or from alternate belay, walk left and climb through a short overhang at a vertical crack and then step right at the GT Ledge and climb the multi tiered roof with a crack and pine tree about 15-20ft up. There is a fixed pin (bong) just below the crux in a horizontal. Gear to 2 inches protects the crux horizontals. Angle left through the roofs and through the roof on left side. Scramble up lower angled slabs to the top. Be aware that there are no gear anchor options at the top, and large trees are very far from the cliff edge. 5.7 (G), 80ft.

If for some reason this climb appeals to you, I'd recommend doing Pitch 2 of Yum Yum. Dirty and loose doesn't even describe P2 of After You.

Location

Start: Same as Yum Yum, gradually becoming 10ft right of Yum Yum Yab Yum. Walkoff or rappel. We rappeled off the Gelsa rappel, with doubles to the ground. I believe there is a rappel to the climbers left, but other than seeing folks rappel it and seeing intermediate anchors, I have yet to locate the cliff top anchor. Walkoff only takes about 15 minutes.

Protection

Pitch 1 is finicky, tricams might be ideal. P2 is difficult to protect since much of the rock is suspect. Small cams and a #3 at the first belay, finger size cams at the second. Fist size protect the 3rd pitch nice, and/or a screamer for the bong.

Photos

- No Photos -
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
 
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
 
The Nears app is great, but life existed before it. In fact, the Nears app is highly incomplete. It's missing all the climbs between grease gun groove and After you. Including two fun moderates on good quality rock.

You can find the info for the second pitches of all the climbs in the Williams books, and to a lesser extent the Swain book. Neither book finishes on Yum Yum, and I'd definitely recommend the 3rd pitch of After You, but not the second. So the best option is to climb the 5.7- slab p1 of After you, p2 of YYYY. Then get back on P3 of After you (the fun, juggy 5.5 roof) via the pine tree belay at the top of the Williams/Swain YYYY p2 belay. Nov 9, 2015
john l.
Westchester, NY
 
john l.   Westchester, NY
 
The Nears App has this as a single pitch 5.7- that shares the finish of Yum Yum Yab Yum. Nov 4, 2015