Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960
Page Views: 15,634 total · 88/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


151 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This route is a hidden gem comparable to Gelsa or Three Pines. There's a lot of climbing and adventure to be had here!

P1 - Starting up the slab, trend slightly left to reach a short left-facing corner. Follow that up to a ledge with a large pine tree with rappel slings (60').

P2 - First go up and right ~10 feet, then back left about 10 feet (tricky moves, perhaps more like Gunks 5.4) to reach a longer, steeper left-facing corner. Follow that to its top, up the face above and eventually over a bulge to a wide ledge. On its right side is a large pine tree with rappel slings. This is a long pitch, ~120'.

P1 and P2 can be combined with good rope management.

P3 - Take the path of least resistance, using a long leftward ramp, leftwards to the base of the huge open book with several roof systems in it, and make a belay.

P4 - Go up the inside of the open book for ~20 ft (some trickiness) to underneath the highest overhang above. Move up and right to old pitons. Traverse 30-40 ft right horizontally under the roof (exposed but good holds, possibly some old pitons). After the roof ends, head up past bulges and slabs to the trees (100', 5.4).  You'll want to extend your belay back to the cliff edge.

Descent: Walk off to the north (right) and look for a trail (light blue blazes); use it to follow the clifftop to the north until, just before the road, you can scramble back down to the base and trail.

Location

Walk past the beginning section of the nears and the huge face of Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. Next, you'll pass a small gully system, at Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock, with the right-leaning crack of Up Yours as an obvious marker. Keep going another 200'.

If you reach the land closure / trespassing signs, you've gone too far. Turn around and go back 70-85 feet.

The base of Yum Yum Yab Yum is notable by a slabbier streak of cleaner rock; a left-facing corner that starts about 20-25 feet up, and the pine tree on the belay ledge about 50 feet up.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Bring a few long slings for the P3 traverse as well as your sneakers for the walk off.

Photos