Yum Yum Yab Yum

This route is a hidden gem comparable to Gelsa or Three Pines. There's a lot of climbing and adventure to be had here!

P1 - Starting up the slab, trend slightly left to reach a short left-facing corner. Gear is a bit sparse. Follow that up to a ledge with a large pine tree with rappel slings (30'). 

P2 - First go up and right ~10 feet, then back left about 10 feet (tricky moves, perhaps more like Gunks 5.4) to reach a longer, steeper left-facing corner. Follow that to its top, up the face above and eventually over a bulge to a good ledge. Set up a belay from a large pine tree with rappel slings on the right side of the ledge. This is a long pitch, ~90'. 

P1 and P2 can be combined with good rope management, going between the two trees at the end of P1. 

P3 - Take the path of least resistance, using a long leftward ramp, leftwards to the base of the huge open book with several roof systems in it. Make an anchor in the corner with small far-apart gear, or scramble up a bit higher to make an anchor and climb back down. This is a easy pitch (5.1). 

P4 - Go up the inside of the open book for ~20 ft (some trickiness) to reach a triangular roof. Move up and right to a bigger roof (not the highest visible roof), there should be a horizontal under the roof. Traverse right (airy!) for 30-40 ft under the roof, following the varying horizontal under the roof for good hands and some old pitons, and looking for feet (difficulty slightly height-dependent, depending on your height relative to the horizontal and feet). After the roof ends, head up past bulges and lichenous slabs (easy climbing but pro a bit sparse) to the trees. 100', 5.4. Set belay at a tree, and extend your belay back to the cliff edge.

Descent: Walk off to the north (climber's right) and look for a trail (light blue blazes); use it to follow the clifftop to the north until, just before the road, you can look for a path on the right that leads to a scramble back down to the base and trail.

Walk past the beginning section of the nears and the huge face of Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. Next, you'll pass a small gully system, at Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock, with the right-leaning crack of Up Yours as an obvious marker. Keep going another 200'.

If you reach the land closure / trespassing signs, you've gone too far. Turn around and go back 70-85 feet.

The base of Yum Yum Yab Yum is notable by a slabbier streak of cleaner rock; a left-facing corner that starts about 20-25 feet up, and the pine tree on the belay ledge about 50 feet up.

Standard Gunks rack. Bring a few long slings for the P3 traverse as well as your sneakers for the walk off.