Avg: 3.1 from 174 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960|
|Page Views:||17,215 total · 90/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1 - Starting up the slab, trend slightly left to reach a short left-facing corner. Follow that up to a ledge with a large pine tree with rappel slings (60').
P2 - First go up and right ~10 feet, then back left about 10 feet (tricky moves, perhaps more like Gunks 5.4) to reach a longer, steeper left-facing corner. Follow that to its top, up the face above and eventually over a bulge to a wide ledge. On its right side is a large pine tree with rappel slings. This is a long pitch, ~120'.
P1 and P2 can be combined with good rope management.
P3 - Take the path of least resistance, using a long leftward ramp, leftwards to the base of the huge open book with several roof systems in it, and make a belay.
P4 - Go up the inside of the open book for ~20 ft (some trickiness) to underneath the highest overhang above. Move up and right to old pitons. Traverse 30-40 ft right horizontally under the roof (exposed but good holds, possibly some old pitons). After the roof ends, head up past bulges and slabs to the trees (100', 5.4). You'll want to extend your belay back to the cliff edge.
Descent: Walk off to the north (right) and look for a trail (light blue blazes); use it to follow the clifftop to the north until, just before the road, you can scramble back down to the base and trail.
If you reach the land closure / trespassing signs, you've gone too far. Turn around and go back 70-85 feet.
The base of Yum Yum Yab Yum is notable by a slabbier streak of cleaner rock; a left-facing corner that starts about 20-25 feet up, and the pine tree on the belay ledge about 50 feet up.