Yum Yum Yab Yum
Avg: 3 from 113 votes
Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
|5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X|
|Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R|
|Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13|
|Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R|
|To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R|
|Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960|
|Page Views:||12,466 total, 87/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006|
DescriptionThis route is a hidden gem comparable to Gelsa or Three Pines. There's a lot of climbing and adventure to be had here!
P1 - Starting up the slab, trend slightly left to reach a short left-facing corner. Follow that up to a ledge with a large pine tree with rappel slings (60').
P2 - First go up and right ~10', then back left about 10 feet (tricky moves, perhaps more like Gunks 5.4) to reach a longer, steeper left-facing corner. Follow that to its top, up the face above and over a bulge to a wide ledge. On its right side is a large pine tree with rappel slings. This is a long pitch, ~120'.
P3 - Take the path of least resistance leftwards to the base of the huge open book, and make a belay.
P4 - Go up the inside of the corner for ~20 ft (some trickiness) to the overhang, move up and right to old pitons, then traverse 30-40 ft horizontally under the roof (exposed but good holds) and up the groove to the top.
Descent: Walk off to the north (right) and look for a trail; use it to follow the clifftop to the north until, just before the road, you can scramble back down to the base and trail.
LocationWalk past the beginning section of the nears and the huge face of Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. Next, you'll pass a small gully system, at Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock, with the right-leaning crack of Up Yours as an obvious marker. Keep going another 200'.
If you reach the land closure / trespassing signs, you've gone too far. Turn around and go back 70-85 feet.
The base of Yum Yum Yab Yum is notable by a slabbier streak of cleaner rock; a left-facing corner that starts about 20-25 feet up, and the pine tree on the belay ledge about 50 feet up.