Avg: 2.7 from 146 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Gary Hemming, Art Gran, Roger Chorley, 1958|
|Page Views:||5,698 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
An excellent 5.6 pitch that marks the leftmost of the densest, highest quality climbing in the Nears. Beyond this the rock quality drops dramatically.
Start about 100' left of Birdland, at a slabby left-facing corner above a chest-high bulge.
P1: Make a tough bouldery move over the bulge into the corner (v1). Continue up the corner (v2), go right under a roof , and climb a steep wall capped by a small roof (pin) to bolted anchors. Good climbing all the way up. 5.6, 80'.
There is a second pitch but most find it "a safari".
v1. The face to the right of the start can be TR'd at 5.11
v2. From the stance above the corner, head left to finish on a hand crack splitting a ceiling, then right back towards the anchors; 5.8+ G/PG.