Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Gary Hemming, Art Gran, Roger Chorley, 1958
Page Views: 5,698 total · 31/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

WARNING: a ground-nest of yellowjackets is in the blocks immediately opposite the start of the route. Avoid those blocks, and put your packs down well to climbers' right.

An excellent 5.6 pitch that marks the leftmost of the densest, highest quality climbing in the Nears. Beyond this the rock quality drops dramatically.

Start about 100' left of Birdland, at a slabby left-facing corner above a chest-high bulge.

P1: Make a tough bouldery move over the bulge into the corner (v1). Continue up the corner (v2), go right under a roof , and climb a steep wall capped by a small roof (pin) to bolted anchors. Good climbing all the way up. 5.6, 80'.

There is a second pitch but most find it "a safari".  

v1.  The face to the right of the start can be TR'd at 5.11
v2.  From the stance above the corner, head left to finish on a hand crack splitting a ceiling, then right back towards the anchors;  5.8+ G/PG.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos