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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X |
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Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | John Weichsel, Bill Goldner, 1961 |
| Page Views: | 2,386 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Mar 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description
Definitely worth doing if all the 7's over in the popular part of the cliff are occupied.
If possible, engage in a dialog with passing climbers:
What route are you on?
Up Yours!
Walk past Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. You'll pass a small gully system, at Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock. Elder Cleavage starts up a hard boulder problem to the right and Up Yours starts up a short lieback to the left.
P1: Climb up to the right-slanting layback crack. Climb this and work right to easier ground. Work up to a corner capped by a small overhang which is taken just a bit left (crux). Then right to easy ground and up to a tree with a rap sling. 5.7, 80'.
If possible, engage in a dialog with passing climbers:
What route are you on?
Up Yours!
Walk past Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. You'll pass a small gully system, at Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock. Elder Cleavage starts up a hard boulder problem to the right and Up Yours starts up a short lieback to the left.
P1: Climb up to the right-slanting layback crack. Climb this and work right to easier ground. Work up to a corner capped by a small overhang which is taken just a bit left (crux). Then right to easy ground and up to a tree with a rap sling. 5.7, 80'.
The upper corner is very nice and 5.7G. It would be worthwhile if you could skip right up to it. May 26, 2009
The second crux is G and a ton of fun. Jul 13, 2009
Wayne, PA
Northeast
All in all, a really nice pitch I thought. The crux is the lower part. After pulling the initial moves I couldn't find decent pro before traversing right so just went for it.
Holds were good though. Apr 15, 2012
Jersey City, NJ
Boulder, CO
Traverse protected just fine with a small horizontal nut placement. Nov 11, 2012
brooklyn, ny