Avg: 2.4 from 56 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||John Weichsel, Bill Goldner, 1961|
|Page Views:||3,394 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Mar 13, 2006 · Updates|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
If possible, engage in a dialog with passing climbers:
What route are you on?
Walk past Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. You'll step down a small gully system after Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Just past this is a section of good rock. Elder Cleavage starts up a hard boulder problem to the right, and Up Yours starts up a short lieback to the left, aiming for the obvious right-slanting crack above.
P1: First, pass a roof, which can be protected with high gear and a good belay, and climb up to the right-slanting layback crack. Climb this and work up and right to easier ground. Next, work up to a corner capped by a small overhang which is taken just a bit left (crux), with committing but solid moves. Finish by climbing the pleasant face up right to easy ground and up to the higher of two trees, and a belay/rappel station. 5.7, 80'.