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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Weichsel, Bill Goldner, 1961
Page Views: 2,332 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Definitely worth doing if all the 7's over in the popular part of the cliff are occupied.

If possible, engage in a dialog with passing climbers:

What route are you on?

Up Yours!

Walk past Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. You'll pass a small gully system, at Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock. Elder Cleavage starts up a hard boulder problem to the right and Up Yours starts up a short lieback to the left.

P1: Climb up to the right-slanting layback crack. Climb this and work right to easier ground. Work up to a corner capped by a small overhang which is taken just a bit left (crux). Then right to easy ground and up to a tree with a rap sling. 5.7, 80'.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos

Danny
brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
i set the anchor on the first tree, as the climbing past it the second tree seemed unnecessarily suspect. i recommend toproping the really fun 10b elder cleavage after doing this route. Oct 8, 2017
jd4567
Boulder, CO
 
jd4567   Boulder, CO
 
I really enjoyed this route, particularly the thoughtful second crux. A great climb for the grade. Also a comfortable and well shaded belay ledge at the second slung pine tree.

Traverse protected just fine with a small horizontal nut placement. Nov 11, 2012
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.7
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.7
I protected the traverse with a microcam. seemed solid enough. a good fun climb. You can climb past the first set of slings on the pine tree to add another 30 feet of climbing. Stay to the left as the tempting cracks to the right all sound very hollow. From the higher ledge you can rap with a 60 meter rope Aug 27, 2012
focus  
I concur with the comments about protecting the lower traverse.
All in all, a really nice pitch I thought. The crux is the lower part. After pulling the initial moves I couldn't find decent pro before traversing right so just went for it.
Holds were good though. Apr 15, 2012
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
I really liked this route. I thought a move higher up in one of the corners was harder physically than the opening undercling. Sep 7, 2010
Spiro
  5.7
Spiro  
  5.7
It takes gear well. You can place a nice nut mid way thru the traverse. It is not a conventional placement but is solid and should help reduce the swing if the second blows it. Sep 3, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This is not for the early 5.7 leader. Didn't like this climb very much. Aug 17, 2009
Michael G
  5.7+
Michael G  
  5.7+
I agree, the first crux protects well for leader, but the second faces a long swing if they come off towards the end of the first crux, or during the traverse afterwards. In an effort to protect the second, I placed a high piece above the slab for the second, and then had to downclimb and move right to get back on route. Since I couldn't place pro until I got above that high piece, I ended up on some 5.4/5 R climbing. It seems that with double ropes you can still place this piece for the second, and also protect yourself for the 5.5 stuff.

The second crux is G and a ton of fun. Jul 13, 2009
JSH

JSH    
I first led this as a middling 5.7 leader, and was horrified! Later, realized I was right to be horrified - the first 40' is really quite poorly protected, and you're in & out of groundfall zone for a good bit. The second, pulling the first bulge, is also faced with a big swing (and potentially the ground) - they remove pro, *then* make the move. YMMV.

The upper corner is very nice and 5.7G. It would be worthwhile if you could skip right up to it. May 26, 2009
GMBurns
  5.7 PG13
GMBurns  
  5.7 PG13
The crux looks harder than it is, and it is well-protected, too. A good route. Aug 4, 2008