Elder Cleavage Direct
Avg: 3.1 from 42 votes
|Type:||Trad, 320 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ivan Rezucha, 1980|
|Page Views:||3,496 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||proto on Jun 5, 2009|
DescriptionP1: Start by making interesting bouldery moves to reach a thin crack, go left over an overhang, then up and right to finally reach a belay in a pine tree.
Ivan Rezucha: The original P2 went up an obvious 5.8 jagged crack that had been done earlier as a variation of a nearby route. That 5.8 crack was one of the "cleavages" that led to the name Elder Cleavage.
Pitch 2 as it is usually done today (and as described in guidebook), 5.4: From the tree at the end of pitch one, move up and a little bit right, through an overhang. Then follow the path of least resistance past several more ledges with trees, some of them with fixed gear on them, until you reach the large ledge. The climbing is all 5.4 with occasional loose crap and dirty horizontals. It is pretty much straight up with some slight jogs to the left and right. Avoid the thickest fields of lichen and you'll stay on track. This pitch is worth doing just to get to the third pitch. Once you reach the big ledge, move to the right about 15 feet to a good-sized tree that is just to the left of a pile of blocks that is leaning against the wall of the cliff.
Pitch 3, 5.10b: This is one of the best 5.10 roofs in the Gunks! Start up the right-facing corner above the stacked blocks. Climb easily up to a stance beneath the large roof with a hanging, left-facing corner just to the right. Make the committing moves up and into the roof; there is good gear to be had next to some blown-out old fixed nuts. Once you are fully into the roof, move right to the pointed block/outside edge of the left-facing corner. Then move up and escape the roof. Climb easily to the top through a forest of lichen.
On P3, from Seth: If you are doing P3 of Elder Cleavage you are cheating yourself if you don't also do Boob Job (5.10b), another awesome roof pitch twenty feet to the left off of the big ledge.
Descent: Right now I would not use the existing chain anchor around the dead/dying tree to get back down. Instead I would put a cordalette around the big tree at the Elder Cleavage topout, rap down to the big ledge to do Boob Job, then walk off.