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Routes in Black Velvet Wall

American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Elevation: 4,457 ft
GPS: 36.035, -115.467 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 246,974 total · 1,400/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 16, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is one of the premier walls in Red Rock. It features a wealth and variety of good climbing from the chimneys of Epinephrine to the balancy edges on Dream of Wild Turkeys.

Getting There

From the Black Velvet parking lot, follow the old bicycle road west for a few hundred yards. When the road turns left, continue west on a good trail. At the base of Whiskey Peak, the is a trail branching left to climb up to Frogland and nearby routes; continue west, climbing slightly before dropping into the deep wash on your immediate right. Follow the streambed up until it is blocked by a cliff band. On the left side of the wash trails lead up to a steep 3rd class route through the band. From the top of the cliff either go straight south toward routes near Dream of Wild Turkeys, or drop back to the streambed and continue upstream a short distance to the Epinephrine area.

Safety


LVMPD Search & Rescue responds to assist lost, stranded, and injured persons, to include fatalities relating to climbing and hiking accidents.  In Black Velvet Canyon, specifically on the route Epinephrine, LVMPD Search & Rescue has seen a substantial increase in rescues. We are asking for your assistance to reduce the number of these types of calls.

Climbers please prepare for a full day of climbing with overnight provisions. Know your limitations and have the ability to retreat from the climb.
There is an Emergency Cache at the top of the peak. The cache may include some overnight supplies, but is not to be relied upon. This is strictly for emergency situations. Instructions will be listed on the outside.

The “walk off” from where Epinephrine tops out has been geo referenced. This is a guide, you are still responsible for your actions. There are no rappels.
 
Geo Map Instructions:
A PDF map has been designed for use on your GPS-enabled mobile device and can be viewed on any PDF reader. When viewed in an installed mobile map application, each map is designed so that your location can be displayed on screen in real time. Geo referenced map applications allow you to navigate using your mobile device’s GPS even without cellular reception. There are a variety of geo referenced PDF apps available for Apple and Android devices. Consult the mobile app instructions for complete information on how to use.

Go into the  App Store, Download AVENZA MAPS.

  • Download the map onto your device prior to being in an area that may not have data coverage.
  • Ensure location services is enabled for the mobile map application being used on your mobile device.
  • In areas with no cellular reception, phone battery life significantly decreases. Putting your device in airplane mode will greatly improve battery life and not interfere with GPS tracking.
Date: 5/14/2018. No warranty is made from LVMPD or Mountain Project as to the accuracy, reliability, or completeness of this data for individual use or aggregate use with other data.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Velvet Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
Refried Brains
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 814
Epinephrine
Trad 13 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 461
Dream of Wild Turkeys
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 350
Sour Mash
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Overhanging Hangover
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 113
The Gobbler
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 64
Yellow Brick Road
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 70
Rock Warrior
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Spark Plug
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Johnny Come Lately
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 273
Prince of Darkness
Trad, Sport 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 116
Fiddler on the Roof
Trad, Sport 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
 7
Sandstone Samurai
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 6
Cutting Edge
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
My Little Pony
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Refried Brains
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Epinephrine
 814
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 13 pitches
Dream of Wild Turkeys
 461
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Sour Mash
 350
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Overhanging Hangover
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Gobbler
 113
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Yellow Brick Road
 64
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 5 pitches
Rock Warrior
 70
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 6 pitches
Spark Plug
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Johnny Come Lately
 17
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Prince of Darkness
 273
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 6 pitches
Fiddler on the Roof
 116
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport 7 pitches
Sandstone Samurai
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X Trad 5 pitches
Cutting Edge
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
My Little Pony
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Black Velvet Wall »

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timoteo  
Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd ascent of a newish route. Did I just dream this?? Do I have the name all wrong? It was one of the most memorable climbs in my so-far 30 years of climbing.... Help an old man remember- thanks! tim hansen, estes park, colorado Jul 30, 2009
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up! Jul 30, 2009
timoteo  
I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out in the middle of nowhere! Was also able to occasionally get an RP (small nut) in now and then, just to dial the fear factor down a little. Just wondering why it is not included in the BVW roster of routes?


Jul 31, 2009
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
No in the route database because it is probably done like 1-2 times per year if that. Sounds like a step up from rock warrior as far as commitment. Jul 31, 2009
timoteo  
Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened to remember it for no particular reason and tried to look it up here. I see that it is described in "Red Rocks Select", by Todd Swain, 1995. BVW is one of the best, anywhere, in my book! Aug 10, 2009
Climbed an "approach" pitch which we thought was P1 of Yellow Rose. Book said to climb to a crack with one bolt. Really sandy and felt much harder than 10a...any idea what this might be? Mar 18, 2012
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
Lost a pair of sunglasses (with straps) in dark on way to Epinephrine on May 4. If found please text 612-247-1817
Thanks May 6, 2018

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