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Areas in Trapps Bouldering

Andrew Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Boxcar Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Doug's Roof 0 / 0 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Herman Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Jahboo Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Kama Sutra Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Keyhole Cliff area 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Nameless Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Pebbles Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Sleepy Hollow 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Stairmaster 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Steel Bridge Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Suzie A Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Uberfall problems 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Wawarsing Parking Lot Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Description

The Trapps, in addition to boasting more than 500 trad routes (detailed here), are home to more than 250 documented boulder problems varying in difficulty from V0 to V13 which scale and traverse the hard quartz conglomerate of the area. The only published bouldering guide for the area is Greene and Russo’s Bouldering in the Shawangunks. A complete list of all posted problems sorted by quality can be found here.

Getting There

There are several different areas each containing interesting problems along the Undercliff road. From South to North, as you walk up the carriage way from the Trapps bride towards Skytop you pass the Steel Bridge Area (Steel Bridge boulders, Terrace boulders), Keyhole, Uberfall Area (Doug's Roof, Uberfall problems, Suzie A boulders), Early Trapps areas (Pebbles, Kama Sutra, Stairway Boulders), 50 yard line, End of the Trapps areas (Andrew, Nameless, Corridor, Boxcar) and Sleepy Hollow boulders. There is one area not accessed from the carriage road, the Wawarsing Parking Lot Boulders, which are located near the Wawarsing parking lot down the East Trapps Connector Trail (AKA The Stairmaster) from the carriage road.

Guide Books

Bouldering in the Shawangunks, Second Edition, Ivan A Greene and Marc E Russo, Jefe Publication, 2003.

For mobile devices, get the Gunks App - both iPhone and Android versions are available. Guides to the Trapps Bouldering, Nears Bouldering, and Peterskill Bouldering are available.

A Temporary Note

Hey everyone, I’m much more of a trad climber than a boulderer, but I’m going to be spending lots of time bouldering in the area--in between diaper changes-- and thought that it would be a good opportunity to start the ball rolling on listing problems on Mountain Project. I’ll attempt to get most of the areas and sub areas up as I have an opportunity to climb them but I’ll only post problems that I’ve completed which means that initially there is going to be a lot of easy stuff. This is an open invitation to anybody and everybody to help me construct and flesh out this area. I’m going to try to stick to the organization that is used in Boulding in the Shawangunks to make it as useful a supplement as possible. Please feel free to PM me or call me out in forums with criticism and corrections. I have no FA information other than what can be implied from the problem names. I’d love to correctly list all of this, so please let me know if you have it. Thanks for you patience.

A Note About Grades

While grades are certainly not the most important thing about climbing, they are an important part of having a worthwhile guidebook. It's my feeling that the printed grades in Bouldering in the Shawangunks are all over the place. It would be great if everyone who ticks a problem took the time to put in an estimate of grade and quality as well. Even if you agree with the current grade, please put in your two cents, and hopefully we can arrive at a more accurate consensus.

133 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trapps Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0- 4-
 69
Boulder of the Gods
Boulder
V1 5
 57
Clune Crank
Boulder
V1 5
 38
Suzie A
Boulder
V2 5+
 14
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation)
Boulder
V2 5+
 44
Dislocator Roof
Boulder
V3 6A
 30
Baby Hole
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 65
The Lorax
Boulder
V4 6B
 27
Gill Pinch Roof
Boulder
V4 6B
 73
The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Route)
Boulder
V4 6B
 86
Andrew Boulder Problem
Boulder
V5 6C
 67
Black Boulder Problem
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 56
The Buddha
Boulder
V7 7A+
 21
New Pair of Glasses
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 9
The Illustrious Buddha
Boulder
V8 7B
 14
Box Car Arete
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boulder of the Gods Steel Bridge Boulders
 69
V0- 4- Boulder
Clune Crank Keyhole Cliff area
 57
V1 5 Boulder
Suzie A Suzie A Boulders
 38
V1 5 Boulder
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gi… Keyhole Cliff area
 14
V2 5+ Boulder
Dislocator Roof Pebbles Boulders
 44
V2 5+ Boulder
Baby Hole Boxcar Area
 30
V3 6A Boulder
The Lorax Steel Bridge Boulders
 65
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Gill Pinch Roof Keyhole Cliff area
 27
V4 6B Boulder
The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Ro… Keyhole Cliff area
 73
V4 6B Boulder
Andrew Boulder Problem Andrew Area
 86
V4 6B Boulder
Black Boulder Problem Pebbles Boulders
 67
V5 6C Boulder
The Buddha Andrew Area
 56
V7- 7A+ Boulder
New Pair of Glasses Steel Bridge Boulders
 21
V7 7A+ Boulder
The Illustrious Buddha Andrew Area
 9
V7-8 7B Boulder
Box Car Arete Boxcar Area
 14
V8 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Trapps Bouldering »

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