Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: John Gill?
Page Views: 6,619 total · 58/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 12, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

74 Opinions

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Are all of John Gill’s routes this good, or did he have the good sense to only attach his name to the classics? I guess it doesn’t matter; as is the case with the other problems that bear his name in this area, this is a must do. Start on the rock below the egg. Work your hands up to the small incut holds on the lip of the egg. Climb to the top. If only it were that easy!


A few feet before the Clune Crank boulder and the Keyhole Cliff wall.


Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
So, I've heard from someone that you're only supposed to use the two incut holds on the right of the egg--implying that the sloper on the nose and just to the left side of the nose are off. I definitely find it easier to use the one on the left side of the nose. What's the consensus out there about how the problem is "supposed" to be done? Aug 12, 2009
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
Not having a guidebook or anything I used the left side. I think it feels the most natural this way, otherwise its not much of an "egg" type boulder problem. It also lets you get your feet off the starting rock wall and onto the egg section before the move to the jug. It did however feel quite easy for the grade doing it this way. Sep 27, 2009
Using the left side is V2, V3 at most. The V4 version of the Egg goes straight up the front side using the crimpers which is significantly harder than using the left side. Sep 28, 2009
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Gill only used the crimpers and the bucket, nothing on the nose or around the corner (I was there). Check out the picture posted in the comments on Larsen's problem.

Gill did have a wonderful eye for boulder problems, but his Gunks visit was only for two or three days. Who knows what other classics he might have done if he had more time? Feb 6, 2010
bheller   SL UT
One shot, one kill! Such an elegantly classic dynamic problem. Oct 4, 2010