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Routes in Sleepy Hollow
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$2000 V6 7A |
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Art of Nothing, The V8 7B |
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Even Chubby V1 5 |
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Even Lovely V9 7C |
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Headless Horseman V7 7A+ |
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Intelligence V3 6A |
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Spring Training V7 7A+ PG13 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 10 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 136 total · 55/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Dursch on Sep 30, 2019 |
| Admins: | JSH |
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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
A truly enjoyable boulder that is blessed by natural air conditioning and cursed by moisture. Apparently the boulder often seeps, so if it even remotely dry - get on it.
Sit start on two sloping holds in the left seam (red circle in the picture) with a choice of footwork depending on style/size. Work your way up and right to a positive side pull crug (crimp jug) using one of many possible sequences while being careful to avoid wet foot crystals. From here, another few moves, again with a variety of tricks, gets you to the lip of the boulder and a relatively chill top out.
Sit start on two sloping holds in the left seam (red circle in the picture) with a choice of footwork depending on style/size. Work your way up and right to a positive side pull crug (crimp jug) using one of many possible sequences while being careful to avoid wet foot crystals. From here, another few moves, again with a variety of tricks, gets you to the lip of the boulder and a relatively chill top out.
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