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Routes in Huntington Ravine

Central Gully - Rock Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cloud Walkers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Henderson Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanics' Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinnacle Direct (Rock Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 4,100 ft
GPS: 44.274, -71.288 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 24,235 total, 864/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

Huntington Ravine is located on Mt Washington. Base elevation is about 4100 ft, most climbing starts about 500 ft above that; the top of the Pinnacle is at 5122 ft, and the top of the ravine itself is at 5500 ft. Be prepared for quickly changing and possibly severe weather. The summit of Mt Washington is only about 800 ft above the top of the ravine and the "all-time-all-time" high temp reading there is (I believe) 74F. With mid-summer readings in the valleys of mid-80'sF it is not uncommon for the summit to be in the 50's.

An interesting fact is that once you get above about the level of the top of the ravine (5000 - 5500 ft) the rocks and boulders take on an entirely unique character of ruggedness. Except on the trails where millions of boots have smoothed them, the granite rocks are extremely rough. That's because they were above the level of the continental ice sheets and received zero "smoothing" during the glacial epochs, and were also exposed to whatever epic weather existed to make such ice sheets!

Getting There

Rt 16 north through North Conway and Glen NH; in Glen Rt 302 branches west towards Bartlett and Crawford Notch. Stay on Rt 16 North for 12 miles to the AMC Pinkham Notch "camp". Free parking and free (good) information here.

Starting at Pinkham Notch (Elev. 2000 ft) Take the Tuckerman Ravine "Fire Trail" to the Huntington Ravine "fire road" trail* (branches right about 2 miles up the "Tuck's Fire Trail") and continue into Huntington Ravine and the huge boulder's at its base. Continue up the trail. Pinnacle is to the left of the trail, the trail cuts right at the base of Central Gully. If headed for Henderson's Ridge, branch off right from the trail below the base of Central Gully at a point where the slide alder looks most easily penetrated.

..* You can also access via the actual Huntington Ravive Trail which branches off about 1.2 miles up the "Tuck's Fire Trail". This is more senic, more direct but probably a bit slower due to terrain underfoot.

Another access possibility is to pay the fee to drive up the Mt Washington Auto Road. Park at a pull out at about the 6 1/2 mile mark and hike DOWN the Huntington Ravine Trail to the base of the ravine. This is an especially popular mode of access when the temp. at even Pinkham Notch is in the mid-to-high-80F's! (Which means the valleys are in the low 90's! )

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Classic Climbing Routes at Huntington Ravine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Yup..."Dankasaurus" is correct. If you hike up to the base of the Pinnacle from AMC's Pinkham Notch Camp (or other climbs in this ravine) the descent via the Huntington Ravine "Trail" is a bit arduous. After "summitting" on Pinnacle (or other buttresses left of the "Damnation Rib") and scrambling up to the "Alpine Garden, most climber's "opt" for a short walk South (Left) on the Alpine Garden Trail to descend back to AMC's Pinkham Notch "Camp" via Lion's Head Trail. From north of Damnation Rib (e.g. top of Henderson Ridge) a descent via the Nelson Crag Trail might be a better option. Aug 21, 2016
Dankasaurus
Lyons, CO
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
From my understanding of this area's orogeny, most of the rock on Washington is quartzite or schist, not granite. Anyways, it's frictiony and has that nice alpine feel. The descent of the Huntington Ravine trail can be accomplished onsight with some seriously exposed 3rd classing and would be a terrible option if moist. But, it was dry the day that we did it, and is doable if you have energy left from the climb. Again: The Huntington Ravine trail is a very serious but doable descent route from these climbs. Almost 5th class, but hey, you've got a rope right? Aug 20, 2016
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Lots of people have clawed and grunged their way up that buttress over the decades, Simon, both in summer and winter. It gets pretty snow-blasted in the winter, hence the lack of crampon scratches. That's just one of many great alpine adventures to be had up there...glad you got on it! Another good place, where absolutely no one will be, is on any of several small buttresses off of Boot Spur on the south rim of Tuckerman Ravine. Short (2 - 3 pitches) routes can be worked out kind of all over the place. Exploration is the bomb! Jun 30, 2016
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
Yesterday we showed up late for the conga line on the northeast buttress of the pinnacle so we decided to do something different. We climbed an 800' line on the jumbled buttress to the right of pinnacle gully. It was a full on adventure with extreme run outs, suspect rock, and bush wallowing. We found 5 old pitons en route, one of which slid right out when I grabbed it. The line we took went at around 5.9G(5.4X) C1 4 roped pitches with the crux coming at a steep left-facing corner on pitch 1. Does anyone know anything about the history of this route? The rock was apparently devoid of crampon scratches. Aug 31, 2015

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