Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Back in the day? Mr & Mrs Townsend then a couple weeks later Bill Boyle, Al & Pat Stebbins ERA 8/23/1987
Page Views: 1,411 total · 34/month
Shared By: petr07 Lindahl on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

5 Opinions

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This route is on the first (lowest) corner system in Central Gully. A fun route that can be broken up into 2 pitches in a couple of spots. In Handren's book, the pitches are listed as P1: 120 feet, 5.7. P2: 60 feet, 5.8.

P1: 30 feet or so of easy climbing up a grassy crack to a small ledge. Then head up the finger crack that angles slightly right. There are a couple of ledges above to belay from.

P2: From the belay climb up to a hand/fist crack and past a small roof to the top. Route essentially ends when the rock runs out. There was a decent place to sling for an anchor / rappel to the climbers right near the top.


First corner system in Central Gully


Single rack to 3"


Ben Townsend  
My wife and I climbed this route a couple weeks before the FA noted above, but I would be really surprised if it hadn't been done earlier. Oct 19, 2016
Peter Brandon
North Conway, New Hampshire
Peter Brandon   North Conway, New Hampshire
First pitch is meh, crack has a ton of vegetation and crap in it. Second pitch is fun, crux protects well, and you end up at a pretty amazing position at the anchor (Webbing slung around a rock with a biner on it as of 9/25/17). No need for the #3 that I could tell.

Overall a fun climb, maybe I'll enjoy the first pitch more next time. Sep 26, 2017
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
Beware human feces under a rock at starting ledge. Nasty. Also belated from ledge just below normal belay ledge, much easier/better gear anchor but semi-hanging. Also we thrashed to the top. As the guidebook says “not recommend”. It was thick. Sep 14, 2018