Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ken Henderson, Miriam O'Brien, et al in 1927
Page Views: 18,749 total · 104/month
Shared By: T. Moon on Apr 20, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

59 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is the ridge that borders North Gully in Huntington Ravine. Head up a low angle toe of rock. The route is mostly 4rth class with several easy technical spots. The climb kind of ends just after a large ledge with the "diving board" feature, which sticks out into space above North Gully. Very great position with spectacular views of the ravine. Overall is is a pretty fun route although it would be nicer if it didn't kind of run out half way up the side of the ravine.

Location Suggest change

Hike up the Huntington Ravine Trail from Pinkham Notch. From the center of the ravine identify North Gully -- last one to your right -- and bushwack over to it. [ 2 NOTES: 1. See thr photo by M. Tyler which shows a route that has gotten favorable comments. You’ll need a GPS or at least an altimeter.  2. The old directions say: “Staying high on the regular trail until it starts to turn left (away from the north side of the ravine, at least means that your bushwhack is level or slightly downhill, MUCH easier!”]. Depending on the line you pick, this may turn out to be the crux of the day.

Start at the base of, and on the right side of North Gully. (Photo) About 3-4 short pitches leads you to 10' or 15' foot corner off the diving board ledge, once ascended the technical climbing comes to an end and you scramble to the top of Nelson Crag and find the immense cairn. Walk around the Alpine Garden and descend the Lion Head Trail back to Pinkham.

Protection Suggest change

Light rack, small to medium. You can find a place to put pretty much anything you bring.

Note- I found a #2 useful. Also, there are some old pins here and there. If you need, or want, to rap down there’s a set of old pins towards the bottom, on the “ west” wall that drops you down into North Gully where you can then scramble back to the starting point. The wall itself looked interesting for climbing.  ( see comment by jcomeau2 ) RHall NH Admin.