Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Huntington Ravine

Central Gully - Rock Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cloud Walkers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Henderson Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanics' Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinnacle Direct (Rock Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Webster, 8/2/1987
Page Views: 5,494 total, 56/month
Shared By: cjdrover on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

* This route experienced major rockfall in 2014/2015. See comments below for more info. *

1) Step over Central Gully and get established in the often wet corner (5.7 R). Continue up the corner to a large vegetated ledge and belay from a slung feature and some fixed nuts (small gear backs it up). 5.9, 100 feet.

2) *Rockfall has affected this pitch* Move up the slabby corner from the belay (extend your gear). Stem the corner as high as you can, place gear above your head, and fire the crux lieback. After an awkward move to mantle the V-shaped groove, make a few moves up to your left and belay from an old bolt and two pins. 5.10b, 50 feet.

3) Climb 5.9 offwidth directly above the belay until the crack narrows. Move up onto the narrow ledge on your right, then lieback and jam the corner crack (narrow fists to narrow hands) up and over the bulge. The regular finish traverses left to a ledge, then up and over easy terrain. Belay from a slung pinch between two boulders. 5.10a, 65 feet.

Location

Head up the Huntington Ravine Trail to where it turns right and goes up the slabs. Continue up the gully, scrambling up slabs just to the right of the water. Look for a good sized ledge with a single old bolt. Belay from here - pitch one begins in the corner 5 feet farther up the gully.

Protection

A set of nuts and a single set of cams.

--- 60 meter rope OR twin 50 meter ropes are MANDATORY ---
(29 meter rap from first belay to ground)

Bring extra webbing and rap rings, just in case. A hammer and some pins in your pack isn't a terrible idea either, if you know what to do with them. The second anchor kinda sucks.
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This is a really great route with three very varied pitches - it has a little bit of everything.

Here is some beta to keep in mind. The first pitch looks very dirty and vegetated and appears not to protect well from the base, however, adequate gear placements appear as you climb. Nonetheless, it would be very nice if someone felt like scrubbing that corner - it would just be a bit more aesthetic. The second pitch does have a loose mungy section below the roof. Care must be taken not to dislodge any of these loose blocks of varying sizes. However, the climbing in this area is not particularly difficult, and this should not deter you from climbing the route. The cruxes are relatively short and well protected. Pitch two and three could be linked together if you are very comfortable climbing 5.10, and you use long slings. If you get to the top of the third pitch and cannot find the rappel anchor, top out onto the brushy ledge and you will see the the slung boulders recessed from the edge. Last, the route can be descended in 2 raps with a single 70 m rope. Jun 22, 2016
Pete is correct, this route has seen a huge rockfall since last season. The entire block above the P2 belay is now lying in the water course at the bottom of the route. Climbing through the rockfall on P2 is unavoidable and very dirty, but technically not very difficult. The P2 crux hasn't been affected, and the rest of the route is normal. More rockfall is possible though, so be careful if you choose to do this otherwise fantastic route.

Pete, we really appreciated your nut rappel station on P3. Thanks! We added our own biner to the rig as well. Aug 3, 2015
sometime this season, a huge chunk of the route fell off at the beginning of pitch 2. the block that fell off is a bit downhill from the base of the climb, and is about the size of a van. doesn't change the grade, but there's a bunch of crummy rock where the block was. the crux moves are unaffected. Aug 3, 2015
petr07 Lindahl
  5.10b
petr07 Lindahl  
  5.10b
Did this route a couple weekends ago. Was our first time on it so maybe this is normal, but above the P1 belay station just as you're getting to the roof on P2 there was an immense amount of loose rock, mud and general junk that had flown out of the bottom of the crack. Impossible to avoid and made for pretty scary moves into the crack....and wet/muddy feet that required cleaning before sending the roof.

But once past that, fantastic route.

We did not see any rap station at the top of P3, nor did we see anything we felt comfortable just slinging. Ended up leaving a couple nuts up there for the rap. Jul 22, 2015
CWood
SLC, UT
CWood   SLC, UT
We were able to reach the ground in one double-rope rappel (60m) from a rap anchor (slung pinch described above) at the end of the 3rd pitch. Rope stretch was needed to get to the bottom, and minor variation in rope length could potentially make this unworkable. Total rappel length was likely 215-220 feet. Fortunately, it should be possible to see whether the ropes reach or not without passing the first ledge/anchor, but I strongly recommend tying knots in the ends of your ropes. Jul 23, 2012
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
I remember rapping off a slung boulder at the top of P3 in 2010 - that we slung. Among the sketchier raps I've done. I also remember slotting myself into the offwidth at the belay on P2 and belaying my partner off the hip for fear of weighting the, uh, "anchor". Of course, when snow started 15 minutes later we had to rap off of it anyways... needless to say, it held. Oct 21, 2011
S. Neoh  
Could they the same sling and nut we left on top of P3? Amazing if so! If the same, that sling is more than 10 years old and had spent the last 7 or 8 years out in the open; definitely not to be trusted. Oct 2, 2011
Nick L  
As of late July 2011, the sling and nut anchor at top of P3 was getting rather worn and faded. Also the P2 anchor would not be great to rap off unless backed up. Instead we scrambled off, which made for a memorable gardening experience. especially while wearing shorts... Maybe only one loose block just before V-groove.

Good route - wish it was 3 x longer! Oct 2, 2011
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
Doubles of hand sized cams allowed me to sew up Pitch 3, but you don't need them. I'm not sure why the book lists this as Grade III - perhaps it factors in the approach and setting. As with all climbs up here, treat all handholds, footholds, trees, and fixed gear with extreme suspicion. Be sure all the ice is already down if trying this route in the spring. Aug 30, 2010
jimmi jazz
Denver co
 
jimmi jazz   Denver co
 
did it today,best route on washington. fun climbiing in a great setting. Aug 14, 2010
S. Neoh  
We did this climb years ago as a party of three with two 60m half-ropes. We topped out but could not find the third and last set of anchors. Luckily, we had a very long sling so we slung a sizable piece of rock and also left a well-placed nut behind as the anchor. The first rap took us down to the second set of anchors (did not look all that good even back then). Then we rapped the rest of the way in one go, with a meter or two of rope to spare.

There is certainly some adventure to this climb. Nov 12, 2009