Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,577 total · 50/month
Shared By: burlap submariner on Nov 14, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This is a very direct variant to the pinnacle rock climb, it follows the arete direct from the first chimney pitch of pinnacle ridge, the route finding is simple follow the ridge/arete proper and a good amount of fixed pins on the way. The crux comes at a tricky roof to a step around the arete (extremely exposed, you can see pinnacle waterfall at about 250' down) to a vertical seam protected by brassies and a ring pin.

Location

the pinnacle, huntington ravine. follow the ridge/arete proper to the top and walk off down huntington ravine or traverse over to lions head trail.

Protection

single rack to a number 4 camalot, 1 set of nuts and micro nuts.

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Photos

Top of pitch two.
Top of pitch two.
 0
Fairy Tale Traverse.
Fairy Tale Traverse.
 0
Crux pitch four
Crux pitch four
 0
pulling out of the crux, pitch four.
pulling out of the crux, pitch four.
 0
pitch two.
pitch two.
 0
starting the crux pitch four.
starting the crux pitch four.
 0

3 Comments

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Emmett Lyman
Somerville, MA
 
Emmett Lyman   Somerville, MA
 
Sounds like we may have climbed this a bit differently. Above the arete moves you call the crux we crossed the small ledge to the left and continued to follow 3 pins up a tricky corner with slopey holds. It felt a fair bit harder than arete moves below. Just above that we escaped left and ended up below a large boulder with some nasty old tat and a sketchy rock leaning on its right side. We cleaned up the tat (new black webbing and older but still good green cord) and proceeded up above the boulder. There, and maybe 20 ft right of the standard Pinancle route, we found a steep face with good jugs and a pin about 10 feet up. This was the crux for us - a pretty dynamic move on jugs with bad/cut feet and felt like the 9+ rating. That brought us to the big slopey ledge, which we crossed up and slightly right to the 2 pin anchor below the fairy tale traverse. Aug 22, 2016
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
  5.9
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
  5.9
Those pins around the arete are only worth clipping if you pretend they work. A small nut above the second pin is the only pro you get but it is solid. Great climb overall had a really nice alpine feel the whole way. Jul 9, 2018
Cleve Slimber
  5.8
Cleve Slimber  
  5.8
Didn't see a reason for a #4 or micronuts. Single rack to 3# will do you fine. Sep 17, 2018