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Psychedelic Soul
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
Routes in 05. Huntington Ravine
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Balalayka Variation T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bear Crap Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Central Gully - Rock Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cloud Walkers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Henderson Ridge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Mechanics' Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pinnacle Direct (Rock Climb) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Primal Scream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Psychedelic Soul T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Time Machine T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | September 2018 |
| Page Views: | 2,049 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Grant Simmons on Sep 12, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A long, varied pitch with lots of 5.11 climbing and a wild 5.12 crux. A great line in an incredible setting. Full value.
Stem across the stream and begin by climbing the initial corner of Mechanics' Route. Step right after 35' to a line of bolts that follow a technical arête and lead to a 2-bolt anchor beneath a square roof (5.11d to here, and fully worthy in its own right). Continue climbing past the anchor and wrestle your way into the crux - a cryptic, holdless corner. Work your Houdini magic and will yourself to stay in there, then keep fighting to reach a well-earned rest. Boulder up and right to gain easier ground and continue to a 2-bolt anchor on a fantastic perch.
Descent: A 70m rope doesn't quite reach, at least not without some minor shenanigans... It's best to lower to the mid-anchor and descend again.
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