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Routes in Sugarloaf

Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deja View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dreadnaught T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fistful of Stoppers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Magic Carpet Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Return to Sender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Sole Fusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soul Confusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superman Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tier Pressure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Valar Dohaeris T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Sept 11. 2011
Page Views: 908 total, 23/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A great route if you can find the first pitch. The upper pitches are beautiful, up a long corner past two significant overhangs.

Location

See photo or GPS data to locate the non-obvious start. Or navigate to Tier Pressure's obvious corner and walk 100 ft left; look up - you should be just able to see all the way up the cliff and pick out the overhangs.

Protection

Normal rack, with a few extra small/very small cams. With diligence, this route can be sewn up (at least by Sugarloaf standards).
sara pax
western mass
sara pax   western mass
Great route! I recommend combining pitch 3 with the direct finish for a near rope length of excellent climbing.

In the vein of great sketchy roof traverses, this one is up there with the likes of Birdcage, the Book, and Atlantis. Run it out past the bolt deep into the corner under the huge roof. Plug a yellow alien while you compose yourself, then step out right and plug a blue alien as far out as you can (a double length and unclipping the yellow will cut down on drag). Then stand there for like 20 minutes contemplating the unlikelyness of what you're about to do. When you decide to commit and reach the lip out right you'll be so psyched and realize it wasn't all that bad (10a), but you'll still have no idea what your feet were sticking too. Good luck finding the anchor (it's pretty much straight up in the trees). Aug 18, 2015