Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Sept 11. 2011
Page Views: 1,126 total · 20/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

A great route if you can find the first pitch. The upper pitches are beautiful, up a long corner past two significant overhangs.

Location

See photo or GPS data to locate the non-obvious start. Or navigate to Tier Pressure's obvious corner and walk 100 ft left; look up - you should be just able to see all the way up the cliff and pick out the overhangs.

Protection

Normal rack, with a few extra small/very small cams. With diligence, this route can be sewn up (at least by Sugarloaf standards).

Photos

sara pax
western mass/traveling
sara pax   western mass/traveling
Great route! I recommend combining pitch 3 with the direct finish for a near rope length of excellent climbing.

In the vein of great sketchy roof traverses, this one is up there with the likes of Birdcage, the Book, and Atlantis. Run it out past the bolt deep into the corner under the huge roof. Plug a yellow alien while you compose yourself, then step out right and plug a blue alien as far out as you can (a double length and unclipping the yellow will cut down on drag). Then stand there for like 20 minutes contemplating the unlikelyness of what you're about to do. When you decide to commit and reach the lip out right you'll be so psyched and realize it wasn't all that bad (10a), but you'll still have no idea what your feet were sticking too. Good luck finding the anchor (it's pretty much straight up in the trees). Aug 18, 2015
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
Tried to follow route as described in Adirondack Rock and got a little off-route between the 2nd half of the first pitch and the start of the corner. Lowering off the bolt near the top of the corner doesn't seem to make much sense.... Instead, continue up the 5.9 finish or traverse hard left around the corner to a bolted belay/rap station. The tree mound below and left of the bolt is an awkward spot to belay from, with no gear besides the collection of small trees that are at your feet if you're standing in the only flat spot. I thought the only real 5.8 was moving past the overlap in the middle of the corner. Has anyone done the original finish recently? I took a peek at it, but no 30' section of 5.7 seems worth pulling on that huge scary ass block, which is hanging improbably directly above the belay... Jun 11, 2018
Gunkiemike
  5.8
Gunkiemike  
  5.8
It's rare enough for me to hear about anyone doing the direct finish (always looking for feedback on the grade) but I have never heard from anyone who's done that original finish. I would not particularly recommend it, for the reason you mentioned. As for that bolt, its being there reflects the convoluted manner in which the line was put up. Jun 11, 2018
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
Gotcha. Thanks for the info! We didn't actually climb the direct variation, regrettably, so i can't confirm the grade. Overall the middle of the route was enjoyable, and climbing at sugarloaf is a classic dax experience. Jun 11, 2018