Type: Sport, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Smith 3/16
Page Views: 948 total · 28/month
Shared By: SmithBro on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Climb the first pitch of Big Easy 5.7, step right and belay. 2 bolts. From the belay, continue up and right briefly into Boats From Cuba corner, then left to the spike. From there, delicately traverse left, and up to overlap. Back right until you can step left above the overlap, then a crux move to the top. 2 bolts.

Location

Above The Big Easy first pitch.

Protection

8 bolts

Photos

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Eli .
GMC3500
Eli .   GMC3500
When were anchors added to this pitch? I thought I saw something up there in early November. Did any bolts get added to Boats from Cuba? Is there any loose rock left on that section? I'm just wondering if that route is now one or two bolts away from no longer requiring gear. Mar 14, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.11c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11c
Great name Smitty. I need you to help name some routes for me down in Arcadia. I haven't been able to think of anything good lately. (Perhaps I need to read more!) Mar 14, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.11c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11c
I got on this with Chris this weekend. It is a great route with good rock and really fun thought provoking beta. I found it a little heady feeling at the crux on my flash attempt even though the bolt was probably at my ankle, as some of the moves are tenuous. It is well bolted though. The grade is probably height dependent.

Eli, re. Boats, you may be able to use the first couple bolts of Chris's route for Boats and then they diverge left. Boats still and probably always until they naturally fall, will have big loose blocks. To trundle them would wipe out some very cool old cliff trees. Mar 21, 2016
Eli .
GMC3500
Eli .   GMC3500
Thanks for the info Mark. Apr 1, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11+
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11+
Onsighted this one today. It was close. Very tricky and difficult moves just below the anchor (and a wet hold that almost blew it for me). I really liked everything up to the crux but even after the send I couldn't figure out a sequence that made the crux what I would call "fun" haha. But a good challenge and worth doing :) Feb 27, 2018
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
Finally got to try this. Eventually I think I found a pretty good sequence for the top crux, felt almost smooth, but I actually found the section above getting from above just above the dike to just below the overlap. I couldn't find a way up or left & up, and ended up pulling on the draw. There were lots of spots that looks like a hold could have recently come off, anybody have any idea if that happened, or just better beta there?

I also thought the easy-ish moves up the boats form cuba corner weren't that well protected by the last bolt way to your left - with the threes and sideways fall potential - unless I went the wrong way, not a fall I'd want to take. I ended up slinging a small slightly chossy hole in the back of that corner to make myself feel better, which ended up being about halfway in-between the last and previous bolts.

Otherwise, some pretty nice movement I didn't expect when looking but before climbing this. Jul 30, 2018