Type: Sport, Boulder, 45 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 11/07
Page Views: 2,040 total · 18/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Sep 13, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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45 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the tight dihedral to the right of Anchovy Caper. Originally done as a highball boulder problem up the corner and down climbed via Anchovy Caper, there are now two bolts in the corner.

Start on a good hold and a crimp and toss to a good jug on right dihedral wall, climb the 20 foot dihedral. From here climb easier but fun ground up to the anchors for Anchovy Caper.

The history of this route is interesting, the bolts that you climb on were actually there for an easier alternative to Anchovy Caper, and the dihedral was done as a boulder problem, I believe by Mark Sprague, if you link the two together you get a quality route. It would be great for one lower bolt so its not quite so scary. It can by protected by lowering off from Anchovy Caper and pre-placing the quick-draw. (I would recommend this since the bolt is above the crux) Edit - A lower bolt has been added

Location

This is just right of Anchovy Caper and left of Green Mile, in a tight dihedral.

Protection

Five or six bolts

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b V1-
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b V1-
If anyone has any information on this route or think I have been mistaken on something please let me know. This is an awesome route but could use one more bolt to protect the crux. I got some of the information from the comments made on the page for Anchovy Caper. Sep 13, 2009
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
Mark or Ed told me you could just stick clip the first bolt and have at it. or do what you said and lower off Anchovy and put a draw on that bolt and clip your rope to it on the way down. Mar 2, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
you would need a very long stick clip... longer than mine anyway... with all bolts in this wall why do this route this way instead of putting in one more? Mar 2, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b V1-
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b V1-
I agree with Lee, this route is one bolt from becoming fairly popular, it would be good to have another .10 in this area for busy days. Mar 3, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
or get a longer pole... Mar 3, 2010
BALDY
Gilmanton, NH
  5.10b PG13
BALDY   Gilmanton, NH
  5.10b PG13
I certainly see where Matt and Lee are coming from, thinning the crowds is good. BUT I think it is nice to have a .10 like this at Main Left where it takes a certain level of commitment, and you get that "don't fall now" feeling. Jun 9, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Don't you think it can be very easily TRed, and thereby not giving the rock a pin cushion effect? The bolt is more as a directional for that. I think we figured if people really wanted to lead it, they could figure how to get it clipped. The lower corner isn't really that interesting. The highball spicyness as a boulder problem is what made it intriguing to me. Personally, I like the easy climbing above that was originally a variation to Anchovy better. It makes a nice solo up to the ledge.

If people really want a lower bolt and somebody has the skill to put a good quality bolt in, have at it. My drill and bolting kit is about 6 miles out in the woods, so I don't think I will be carrying it out to do it any time soon. Just make sure the bolt or a draw hanging from it wont get in the way when climbing. Maybe scrub it up and boulder it first to see if you really think it needs a bolt. Jul 3, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10 V1- R
S. Neoh  
  5.10 V1- R
Didn't have a pad or experienced spotter today.
Since I do not have the expertise to place a lower glue-in, I will try to find a long enough stick to lay at the base of this climb/problem. Perhaps this will get people to try out the climb w/o needing to get on Anchovy Caper first (so that one can place a draw on the high bolt on lower from A.C.).
I guess my point is nature will reclaim the line and the glue-ins already placed if the climb never sees any traffic. That would be a shame and the fine effort and quality glue-ins that went into this climb would go to waste. Jul 4, 2010
CLamb  
I was able to solo past the first bolt of Anchovy Caper, then climb over into the dihedral and stick clip the first bolt of this. Aug 15, 2010
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
In the new guidebook this is not rated R. Have some bolts been added? Jun 18, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
No. It is expected that you would stick clip the high bolt(or just boulder it with pads and a spotter) Jun 19, 2011
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
I attempted to stick clip the first bolt yesterday. I am 6 feet tall with long arms and had a 10 foot stick clip. Still not tall enough. If you are going to try this route, be prepared to either boulder the crux or repel down to preclip the first bolt. Sep 16, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
I also think this is deserving of a lower, stick-clippable bolt. The corner is quite fun, and I think the reason no one climbs it is because all the bolts are after the crux!

Mark, does the bolt need to be a glue-in? Sep 23, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
It probably should be. It is Rumney after all. Non-glue-ins seem to loosen up pretty quickly there, especially crux first bolts. Maybe you can bribe Smitty to do it. I think he has the technology. I'm still busy developing "the New Rumney" before it gets out, so I won't be able to get to it any time soon. Sep 24, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
If one were to put a bolt in that can be clipped after the first move, so your feet are ~5 or 6 feet off the ground, would that be high enough that there would be no ground fall potential between the new bolt and the current lowest bolt? Sep 24, 2012
J Meagher
  5.10b PG13
J Meagher  
  5.10b PG13
A great candidate for your first 5.10, because a stick-clip is all you need to protect the crux. Put both hands on a good crimp about 1 foot above head height, get both feet on a ledge below the bulge, and fire for the box-shaped jug (hard bouldery move)! The rest of the corner is about 5.7 ish, and the slabs above are probably 5.1 or so. Despite that this is a "one move wonder" route, I feel another lower bolt in the corner would make this much more popular. If you're not comfortable leading a 5.10, do Anchovie Caper first and toprope this(they share an anchor).

Also, does anybody know of any other good 5.10's that share an anchor with an easier route and can be toproped easily? Nov 24, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
3 things:
1.NICE JOB :)
2.most stick clips wont reach the first bolt as has been discussed at length above...
3.the first thing that comes to mind for the 5.10 you are looking for is to climb the Digger-Bug link up (5.8) then top rope Gold Bug 5.10 c/d... fun stuff... there are others im sure, ill get back to you when i think more... Nov 24, 2012
J Meagher
  5.10b PG13
J Meagher  
  5.10b PG13
By the 'Digger-Bug' linkup, do you mean climb Gold Digger to the chains, then traverse left onto Goldbug, or do you traverse left earlier? Nov 30, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
"Digger-bug (5.8)" is a popular link up that does the 1st 2/3 of Gold Digger (5.8+) but then where that route has a puzzling step right (crux) you instead clip the last two bolts of Gold Bug (5.10c/d) out to your left as you climb up the very pleasant stemming corner above to the Gold Bug Anchors... This has become a popular moderate option and proves to be an easy way to set a toprope Gold Bug (5.10c/d)...

thats basically a route description for what im talking about and i will copy it to the Gold Digger description for all to see :) Nov 30, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
I remember folks talking about the first bolt being high but I hadn't attempted to stick clip it until the other day - hah! The bite is definitely in making that initial move up the right face. After that the corner lets off but makes for a couple of trusting moves until you reach the bolt. I'm indifferent about the addition of a bolt... but I lean towards there are plenty of other climbs on either side to climb if you can't protect this one. And when "the New Rumney" is finished being developed, maybe no one will care about this corner. :) Jul 23, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Fine point but what was the point of putting any bolts in then... could have left it as R/X rated or top rope... Jul 23, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I think when Ward put it in he was thinking of it as mostly a directional for TRing. I don't mind if somebody who knows how to put glue-ins well wants to put a lower one in. It is pretty low on my very long list of things to do. Moving the Green Mile anchors down and left is higher on my agenda. If while doing that I have a spare bolt and glue I will see about it. I think it is funny how much conversation this low star little corner generates. Jul 23, 2013
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
If everyone's opinion is in play here, I'd like to voice mine as well. Anyone wanting to do this route can drop in from the top after climbing an easier route, and pre-place their draw/rope. Placing a bolt is only going to take away from someone who wants to try a route that requires some commitment, not give to those who want safely bolted routes. Mar 26, 2015
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Eli - from what I have seen over the years, the ethics at Rumney is to have all sport climbs safely bolted. As an example, a lower bolt was added to the start of Squall on Upper Vader in the interest of safety. Sep 24, 2015
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
OK so I got on this today, since my partner was climbing The Anchovy Caper, so I had her preclip the first draw on the way down. Now that I've climbed it, I think there should still be an additional bolt added, but next to the first one, and make that the anchors. After the first bolt it becomes a completely different climb, and much easier than the nice boulder start. I recommend that anyone who enjoyed Anchovy caper to try going from the first bolt on Caper to the second bolt on Fish Corner, for a nice alternate 5.8 Sep 26, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
A circus net perhaps? Sep 27, 2015
SmithBro
North Wilmot, New Hampshire
SmithBro   North Wilmot, New Hampshire
New first bolt. 3/9/16 Mar 16, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Thanks for the bolt, Smithbro! Glad I didn't have to do the spicy boulder start. Apr 23, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.10 V1- R
S. Neoh  
  5.10 V1- R
Did the climb today with the added low bolt. Stick clip was easily made with a shortish stick. Worthwhile route to do if you are in the neighborhood. Traffic will keep the middle section cleaner than today. Please climb this route :) Jul 9, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I just took the R rating off the description as it sounds like the new bolt has fixed the problem. For some reason I can't seem to get rid of the bouldering grade however... Jul 10, 2017
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I led this without a stick clip. The bolt is perfect. It's still pretty high. Getting off the ground and getting established in the dihedral to make the clip, is a spicy and awesome boulder problem. Felt good! Jul 11, 2017