Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 3,665 total · 35/month
Shared By: Jake D. on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Climb above Anchovy Caper anchor to belay ledge. Start 10 feet right of belay anchor. climb up to cave/alcove to a bolt. Grab some holds and swing over to the arete. Shares an anchor with Panama Hat.

Location

2nd route on the belay ledge above anchovy caper.

Protection

8 bolts to bolted anchor

Photos

Jake D.
Northeast
  5.11a
Jake D.   Northeast
  5.11a
TR'd this yesterday after leading Panama Hat. Such a fun route, i gotta get back up there and lead it. perfect route name. Apr 26, 2010
S. Neoh  
Does one need to use the manky/green rail/heuco to climb up to the 1st glue-in? And, boy, there are some nasty looking cobwebs high up on the route. So I decided not to deal with the green holds and spiders today. Jul 3, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.10b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10b
I think only if you are 5'2". Nancy L. gets up in there. You should be able to just lean across, grab the edges, hang low and swing your feet over and get a heal hook. Jul 3, 2010
Jake D.
Northeast
  5.11a
Jake D.   Northeast
  5.11a
getting to the 2nd bolt is hard. i did it on TR but kept falling on lead. haven't gone back to it to try again. i'm 5'7 Jun 17, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
  5.11a
twellman   Cambridge
  5.11a
This route is fun fun fun. The initial swinging boulder problem is very unique climbing!

I am taller (6') and obviously that makes grabbing the first holds easier, but getting your feet up and under you is easier for shorties! I thought 11a was a fair grade, it is a bouldery opening sequence. Sep 9, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
If you want to climb this, be prepared for many spider webs. Sep 19, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
I take a good peek up at this every time I climb its neighbor to the left. Looks formidable but I want to get on it soon. Really cool looking climb. Mar 14, 2013
Don't be afraid to try this route. The swing out is unusual but feels fine once you try it if you get the right holds before lifting your feet off the ledge. Then it's only about three hard moves up from there to a good hold, foot placements, and a rest, and then easier traveling follows. Jul 28, 2013
Harrison Harb
Portland
 
Harrison Harb   Portland
 
vast majority of spider webs are in the dihedral at the top which can be completely avoided Sep 6, 2013
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11a
I hope that the new guidebook will give this climb at least 2 stars.
When I climbed this route two years ago, I was having so much fun climbing it.
Too many climbers at Rumney snob second and third pitch routes but some of those routes are so cool and you never wait in line when you want to climb it. Jan 23, 2014
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
My wife found a bomber kneebar midway up the arete. I love this climb! If it started on the ground it would have a permanent line for it. Jul 1, 2014
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
 
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
 
Climbed this route as well as Panama Hat (Mister Meaner) this wknd. Super cool!! Aug 11, 2015