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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lee Hansche and Lily Hallett 9/7/10 (trad)... retrobolted on 7/23/11 by Lee and Jakob Montoya
Page Views: 2,707 total, 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 8, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start Just left of Anchovie Caper in a corner with some cracks and seams. Work up the corner with some stemming and jamming moving a little left in to a good crack where it gets easier. Follow this to an overlap. Mantel on the left side of the slab and clip the anchor.

It stays dryer than i thought it would.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMAtWj0-SJk

Location

Just left of Anchovie Caper, look for a nice hand jam slot near a right facing corner.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Looks like my beta video isn't linking properly... try this one...
youtube.com/watch?v=aMAtWj0… Jul 17, 2017
I'd like to add some commentary. I led this with no stick clip. I am a trad climber, with plenty of crack technique, experience in stemming, and straight bouldering. Also, I have led a bunch of 9's and 10's at Rumney.

The moves to the first bolt are way harder than 8. Super fun, technique-y, and stout. The beta is quite advanced. Was similar to Fish Corner difficulty, and just as hard as other moves at Rumney that are graded 5.10. Total and compete sandbag at 5.8! I vote for 5.9 (with a plus). Jul 15, 2017
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
 
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
 
Finally got on this climb and thought it was fun. The start is tricky but is at the grade using some techniques and not trying to muscle through it. Jul 11, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Finally got on this one today.
It was a tough and insecure start with the right wall wet.
We led it with the rope pre clipped thru the first draw. Aug 24, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
glad you enjoyed the route! ive never noticed a difference from TR to lead on this one but i do know 2 helpful things...

1.most rumney and or gym climbers arent too used to the techniques that are helpful on the crux start...
2. even if you're done it before if something subtle is just a little off it can feel a bit harder for sure... Jul 22, 2014
What a terrific warm up climb! The first move is tough enough to get your head in the game and the rest is really fun.

Does anyone find this route harder to TR than lead? I hung this up and my party couldn't stick the first move so I cleaned it as well and the struggle on TR was real, kind of odd. Jul 21, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
here is a quick video of the route since there has been much discussion about the beta and the grade...
youtube.com/watch?v=aMAtWj0… Jun 3, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I climbed this yesterday. I thought it climbed really well, well worth another day scrubbing to make it spic and span. Cleaned and I think people would be all over it. It is just not so appealing looking all green. I started brushing the start a little while waiting for a belay.(Anchovy could use a brushing of the sand that has flown down too.) Stemming and laybacking should get you up at the grade. I used one easy hand jam near the bottom. Apr 22, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I looked at it on my way by today... the bottom is not dirty at all the last 8 feet has grown back some moss... the dryer season and some traffic will take care of it or someone can brush it... i will if i climb it soon...
also for those who find it hard, here is my beta after bouldering it a little to refresh.... spoiler alert... right hand jam, left hand palm on the left wall, walk feet up high on the right, kick left foot out and stem, work left hand along a corner feature, another foot move or two and you can reach good hands... nothing super secret but more familiar maybe to trad climbers... Apr 16, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
It's definitely beta-intensive then because Yoda feels way easier to me, haha. Apr 12, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
I am with Lee on this, 5.8 seems about right. I would be willing to call it 5.8+ but it is not as hard as Yoda or any other 5.9's in the area. Fun climb though for sure! Apr 11, 2013
J Meagher
  5.9+
J Meagher  
  5.9+
Yeah, Lee, I think a video would be a great idea, especially because keeping the start at 5.8 sounds pretty beta intensive. I'd definintely want to try this thing again with the right beta sometime Apr 11, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
yeah man, i must be missing something, i got it sometime early last year but have a terrible memory when it comes to beta :) Apr 6, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i promise that with the right beta its no harder than 5.8+ (even if you aren't a crack master)... i feel like i should take video of my beta as a public service haha... glad you got on it though :) Apr 4, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Yeah, the hand jam. I'm just not too good at it yet and then even if you stick it the next few moves are a little tricky. I have yet to get the opening move without stick clipping the first bolt because I get a little shaken because I have awkwardly rolled down that hill before after falling, haha. Apr 4, 2013
J Meagher
  5.9+
J Meagher  
  5.9+
By "crack technique", do you mean using the hand jam at the start? I thought that was probably an important hold, but I couldn't reach anything else from there, so I ended up just powering through it. Apr 4, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
J, the first few moves are really tough without crack technique. I don't have any crack technique so it's pretty hard for me too :). Great climb though. Apr 4, 2013
J Meagher
  5.9+
J Meagher  
  5.9+
This is probably just because my beta was horribly wrong, but this felt waaaay harder than 5.8. I probably spent 25-30 minutes just trying to get to the 1st bolt without pulling on the rope. The first 3 or 4 moves each felt harder than the crux of fish corner (5.10b). Past the start though, it's a great climb up the flake! When lowering, watch your rope so it dosen't get stuck in the chip in the bulge. Apr 4, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks, really glad you like it Matt!
and i agree about that hold at the top, so cool! im glad i dug it out of the dirt :) Jul 25, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
This climb is much fun and very similair to its neighbor to the right, Anchovy Caper, that is a fun and thoughtful crux right off the ground to some mellow climbing and one section of a little more thought provoking climbing at the top.

Just before the anchors on the left is one of the coolest holds, its like a baseball size knob, very different style hold for Rumney.

Once again Lee good find and thank you for putting the time and effort into preparing this climb for the rest of us to enjoy! Jul 25, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I bolted this route so people can enjoy it without having to lug the trad stuff along... climb it, its pretty darn fun!
i do need to clean the top but its good the way it is... Jul 24, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah... it should be bolted... i will have to do that... Sep 25, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
I led this earlier today with Jared and thought it was ok. I didn't find the bottom climbing to be 5.9; it felt a little easier than that. Stemming up and heading up the crack halfway was pretty fun. I had a little trouble with some of the pro (then again, I'm a newbie). I think this would definitely see more traffic if it had 3 or 4 bolts and its own anchors. I'm sure it would confuse people looking in the "new" guidebook... but with a little bit of time, the walking guidebooks will be updated. :)

Thanks for the cleaning! If you end up bolting this, I'll brush it off a tad more. Sep 25, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I cleaned the hell out of this thing today... almost 3 hours of scrubbing... I really hope that after all that work i put in someone wants to climb it... It really is fun, the crux off the ground might be 5.9ish but ill keep the grade as is for now... tell me what you think...

If someone with the skills wanted to bolt it id be fine with that... otherwise i might eventually bolt it but not in the near future... Sep 21, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Ill take some before and after pics when i clean it haha...

and the two routes dont share any climbing the way i did it, as of now they only share the walk up to the anchor... Sep 9, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Joshua's right. Dirty pix or it didn't happen! Sep 9, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
What lee no pictures,I have to see how dirty she is. Sep 9, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I figured it might stay dryer if it was clean... thats good to know... thanks... Sep 9, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Definitely scrub it up, Lee. Once I scrubbed Anchovy it stayed a lot drier than I expected. I started working on that line, but switched over to the Caper. Glad somebody did it. It is not so long, but nice rock. Sep 9, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks guys, beneith all the filth there really is a very nice climb. I've been looking at it for years but it was always wet or i didn't have a willing partner. i will clean it soon and then i will recommend getting on it for sure.

As for gear, i'd call it PG for someone who knows gear craft. i used a small nut and a hard to place nut mixed in with some straight forward solid cams... have fun! Sep 9, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
Lee man nice work, I had looked at this line and was actuallly thinking about doing it next time I was there with gear, now I know what it is and will certainly get on it. Nice work man :) Sep 9, 2010