Type: Sport
FA: Chris Kreutzer, 9/20/14, special thanks to Dave Quinn for his guidance with bolting
Page Views: 2,268 total · 41/month
Shared By: Chris Kreutzer on Sep 20, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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This route has a lower and an upper crux section that is separated by a few blocky moves and a ledge in the middle. The lower crux is characterized by stemming between the dihedral on the left and a small edge on the right. The upper crux consists of a few layback moves up an arĂȘte. Alternatively one can avoid the arĂȘte and climb the face by making use of some small crimps.


The route is located on the Armed and Dangerous wall. It is in the dihedral to the right of Green Mile and to the left of Juicy Fingers and Scene of the Crime.


Five bolts
There are quick clips on the anchor bolts


Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Toproped it with Chris and Dave Quinn maybe a month ago to suss out the bolt placements. Climbs much better than it looks. Given the 5.8 grade, there will probably be a line on this one in the near future.

Ward Sep 21, 2014
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
This thing is really fun and definitely worth getting on. Interesting climbing gets you into the corner and after that it's a fun short slab. Some of the holds have quite a bit of dirt in/on them but a quick swish with your hand and it should be good. Sep 24, 2014
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
This is a fun climb and a good addition, it has interesting climbing through the lower corner to cool face moves at the top. I just hope it stays dry enough to make it see some ascents Sep 26, 2014
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
More interesting and harder than it looks from the ground. Worthy addition. Pretty good climb, 1.5 stars from me. Sep 28, 2014
Noticed this new route this past weekend. Thought it was Juicy Fingers retrobolted and didnt feel like climbing a 5.10, so skipped it. Now I know I need to give this one a go on lead!

What kind of eye bolts are those? They look smaller than the ones I see elsewhere around Rumney. Sep 30, 2014
Chris Kreutzer
Palo Alto, CA
Chris Kreutzer   Palo Alto, CA
They are Wave Bolts,wavebolt.com/ Oct 1, 2014
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
I've thought Wave Bolts are great as soon as I read an article on them about a year ago. Glad RCA decided to "stock them". Now all we need is a version that has a matte or camo finish instead of shiny and bright.
Oh, the two new glue-ins on Sky Pilot are also Wave Bolts. Oct 1, 2014
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
M Bageant   Los Angeles, CA
Nice route, I am sure it will be popular as it gets noticed more.

I climbed directly up the enjoyable moves on the upper face, which was definitely not the path of least resistance, and felt that 5.10- was an appropriate grade. Aug 29, 2016
It's ok for a quick climb if waiting for something else. Not really that remarkable though. When I got to the top I was asking myself "what is the point of this climb"? It has a few different climbing elements and is a jack of all trades but a master of none. And it's short--only 5 bolts. Summary: Anywhere else this would be good--but it's rumney so find a better 5.8 Jun 18, 2018
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Really enjoyable route, climbs a lot more smoothly that it looks. Had to stop and think about the top.

On a side note, be careful belaying this climb. I was on The Green Mile next to this and had to rap down from the anchors. A group of inexperienced college girls were climbing this climb, and when I threw my rope down, yelling "Rope!", they were not paying attention, and the rope hit the belayer (who I was unable to see from the anchor). A few minutes later I accidentally dropped a quickdraw (again, loudly yelling "Rock!") and it missed beaning one of them in the head by inches. None of them were wearing helmets. As Rumney is often a crowded place, remember that other people may be climbing directly above you, and helmets protect more from a bad lead fall. It's dangerous to not be aware of what is going on around you. Jul 14, 2018