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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Chris Hassig and Mark Iber 1979
Page Views: 262 total, 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

So when i started leading trad climbs i climbed every moderate trad route i could find so i could practice placing gear and get used to trusting it. Not all the routes rate high on the quality scale but i found them to be helpful. This one is actually very cool but i didn't rate it highly due to the fact that it traverses under a few popular routes and people would be likely to give you some mumbles and grumbles (if not worse) if you did it on a busy day. However if you are a practicing trad leader and find yourself all alone at this crag you might enjoy a run on this one.

Many bolts have been added since i climbed it so trad gear might not be needed at all anymore on the first pitch but i think a few hand sized cams could be helpful on the traverse crack.

Pitch 1: Climb up the start of metamorphosis which is retrobolted. Where that route goes right you want to follow a hand crack left under clusterphobia (bolts added for this route might help you a bit) follow the crack left past Armed and Dangerous to a nice ledge where you can belay. There are bolt anchors there now. Rap off or do the second pitch.

Pitch 2: Unless someone has cleaned it up, this pitch was adventurous at best. You head up and right on fun climbing to an old rap anchor which was in rough shape when i did it but that was years ago. I decided to continue up the slab above on a scary lichen adventure with little gear. This slab was not in the guide book description so i dont know the exact grade. I'd say scary 5.7.

Again it has been a while since I've been up there so i dont know if it has been cleaned or bolted or what. If anyone knows the current state of this section of cliff please comment and i will update this info.

Location

Start up Metamorphosis then break left under Clusterphobia and Armed and Dangerous

Protection

lots of bolts these days but a few hand sized cams might help the unsteady leader... if you do the second pitch small nuts and cams will be handy...

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Speaking only of the first pitch, it would definitely be a moderate classic if it was located on it's own in a trad area instead of overlapping with three of the most popular sport routes at Rumney. If you find a quiet day to do this route, you'll find that it is excellent climbing with great gear. A good route for a new-ish trad leader (Remember to use extendable draws!) since from most positions on the climb they could clip a bolt if they got sketched.

I climbed Metamorphosis until the diagonal crack, skipping the bolts in lieu of the many great places to put gear. I then followed the crack all the way to its left end using an excessive amount of handjams, until I was directly above the cereal killer anchors, then broke right, finding another gear placement above the roof and used the Clusterphobia anchors - this anchor left the rope in a very good position to avoid wear and drag when lowering and TRing your second.

Plenty of ways to wake it work I'm sure, but for a newer leader two #2 cams will make protecting the diagonal crack thoughtless. May 14, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
I won't rate this route...maybe I did it wrong(?) but, using Beta from someone who'd done the route before and was very familiar with the area, I moved out left from the corner on an obvious traverse line of footholds, hands being a few feet (6-8ft ??) below what looks to be the higher undercling. The first step seemed too committing (and thin) for a 5.5 (e.g. compared to 5.5 traverses such as Pony Express at the Gunks. It compared more to the (5.7) traverse out from the Updraft corner to CCK, when CCK is done that way.) plus the fall back into the corner was, shall we say, un-inviting...sure to "hurt"!
This traverse line also brings you to a point where you do the last few moves of a climb to the left (Scene of the Crime???, up past its anchors) which, although juggy, started off with what seemed a 5.6-5.7 move.
Feeling I might have been having an "off" day, I later climbed one of the more "standard" 5.7's and it felt "just right" at the grade. Oct 20, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I don't think so May 24, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
did the second pitch get an anchor yet? May 24, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i think that sounds about right jeffery... Jun 20, 2009
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Is the mid belay ledge located above the anchors for Cereal Killer? Or am I getting disoriented :( Jun 20, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i think it may have been a little poor route finding on my part that made the top pitch scary but i wouldn't trade that experience for a comfortable one... Nov 28, 2007
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The second pitch may get an anchor so people don't have to disturb the top of the cliff, but it looks to me to be a nice easy trad route with lots of options for gear. It could use a once over though for loose stuff, so be careful, especially as many people hang out below. Nov 26, 2007
May the second pitch forever remain adventureland. Oct 11, 2007
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yup, the mid belay ledge now has a bolted anchor. The second pitch is still adventure land. Sep 18, 2007