Avg: 1.8 from 8 votes
|FA:||Chris Hassig and Mark Iber 1979|
|Page Views:||826 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Aug 31, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Many bolts have been added since i climbed it so trad gear might not be needed at all anymore on the first pitch but i think a few hand sized cams could be helpful on the traverse crack.
Pitch 1: Climb up the start of metamorphosis which is retrobolted. Where that route goes right you want to follow a hand crack left under clusterphobia (bolts added for this route might help you a bit) follow the crack left past Armed and Dangerous to a nice ledge where you can belay. There are bolt anchors there now. Rap off or do the second pitch.
Pitch 2: Unless someone has cleaned it up, this pitch was adventurous at best. You head up and right on fun climbing to an old rap anchor which was in rough shape when i did it but that was years ago. I decided to continue up the slab above on a scary lichen adventure with little gear. This slab was not in the guide book description so i dont know the exact grade. I'd say scary 5.7.
Again it has been a while since I've been up there so i dont know if it has been cleaned or bolted or what. If anyone knows the current state of this section of cliff please comment and i will update this info.