Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Keith Becconsall 2011
Page Views: 2,323 total · 32/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 18, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


122 Opinions

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Description

As it cleans up it's quality will get better. Some junky rock in the roof section is bound to improve with traffic. When I climbed it I picked every hold wrong and it felt mid 5.10 but I looked at it on the way down and it wouldn't have been too hard with the right sequence. A good onsight challenge at the grade.

Start on low angle rock clipping a couple bolts on the way to the roof. Make strenuous moves through the roof hoping to hit the good holds the first time. After pulling the lip it eases off to very moderate but enjoyable climbing to the quick clip anchors.

Location

Straight through the steepest roof on the right end of the A+D wall.

Protection

Bolts to quick clip anchor. First bolt is there to help with cleaning. Clip it...

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.9+
S. Neoh  
  5.9+
This route is just left of FFF, correct, Lee?
If so, I feel like this route is a bit easier than FFF but climbs a little better. Feb 19, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.9+
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.9+
yes, thats the route, and interesting, i thought FFF was better :)
I didn't nail the right holds right off though so perhaps after a few more laps it will feel better... mostlt i gave it one less star for the poor rock quality in the steep section... Feb 19, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.9+
S. Neoh  
  5.9+
Darn it, Lee, in light of your response, I have to be a little wishy washy here; I thought the steep section of AA is better but the slab section of FFF is more interesting. How's that for being non-committal? :) Feb 19, 2013
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  5.10b
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
  5.10b
Did this and FFF yesterday. My 2 cents:
AA = slightly harder feeling roof sequence (and more holds to fumble around on), less interesting slab top section.
FFF = Really fun 3 or 4 move roof sequence with a cool hold, much more interesting slab section. FFF wins in my book.

Both felt about 10a. Jul 22, 2013
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
5.10a/b
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
5.10a/b
Climbed Maltese Falcon, then FFF twice, then this route. AA felt harder than FFF to me. YMMV Jul 2, 2014
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.10a
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.10a
I felt that this one has a harder roof section and then more fun slab section than Far From Feral. Sep 24, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
This is without a doubt as hard as Far From Feral whether they are .9+ or .10a is really splitting hairs, I think for both it depends if you get the sequence right. I believe this has better climbing than FFF. Both are nice routes and sure to be crowd pleasers for years to come. Sep 26, 2014
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
All,

Having climbed this (AAA), FFF, and MF (or at least I think) this past weekend, it seems like the ordering from Left to Right may be a bit off on this website?

If I recal, AAA was the bolt line immediately left of FFF, and AAA is definitly left of Toxic Gumbo. But this page currently shows otherwise. Can anybody confirm?


Apr 24, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Corrected. AAA is to the right of Toxic Gumbo. Boats from Cuba, as described here, is a second pitch (originally approached via a traverse from the Iron Man ledge, but now more commonly from The Big Easy) Apr 25, 2016
Tyler Hutchinson  
5.10b
Stiff 5.10 onsight, especially for us short people at the crux. Otherwise a fun cruiser. Apr 10, 2017
Luke Mertins
Worcester, MA
  5.10a
Luke Mertins   Worcester, MA
  5.10a
Tricky insight, since not all of the "jugs" are created equal. Nice, very well-protected roof pull with the right sequence. May 6, 2018
Alex Fischer
Amherst, MA
  5.9+
Alex Fischer   Amherst, MA
  5.9+
I thought the roof of this climb was great fun, and really well protected (bolts 2 feet apart in parts). The only problem is it's so short! After you get on the easy slab up top you wish there was a longer overhanging section. I think I got pretty lucky with finding the right holds so it felt like 5.9+ to me, but I could see it being 5.10 if you didn't get the right jugs on the first try. Jul 31, 2018
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Curious that this route was listed as a 5.9+ in the 2017 guide book while its right-hand neighbor, Far from Feral, was listed as a 5.10a. Far from Feral seems quite a bit easier to me—a one move climb to a humongous hand-eating bucket. Oct 6, 2018