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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Sprague 2/05
Page Views: 7,343 total · 56/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a link up that combines new and borrowed parts of older routes, resulting in a three pitch 5.8+ that goes the full height of the cliff.

Pitch one: is a fun ramble up moderate (5.7)rock. The first few moves will make you look like a super star without too much effort thanks to the super jugs on the steep rock. A few interesting moves after that but mostly jug hauling to a nice ledge with an anchor. Most people lower off from here for a nice single pitch sport route. If continuing above, you can combine this with the next, short pitch, or stop here and combine the next two.

Pitch two: From the ledge, head up and left through a notch at about 5.7, then continue angling left on easier ground to the Sesame Street anchor (this pitch is short but has few cool moves) The bolts leading straight up after the notch rather than heading over to the anchors is an alternative pitch Bourbon Street' that goes at 5.10c.

Pitch three: From the Sesame anchors continue directly up a corner and easy (5.4) eyebolt protected ground to a bolted anchor. This pitch is pleasant, but it was never fully cleaned, so be aware of a large, potentially loose rock on the side and that you are probably climbing above people who can't see you. If you are going to continue up the next, trad pitch, The White Buttress, 5.9, you may want to continue above the bolted anchors and belay from a tree.

Pitch four: See the description for The White Buttress.

Getting down: From the pitch one anchor at the ledge, you can lower with a 60m rope. From the 2nd or 3rd pitches you will need to do a couple raps, but be very aware of people below and knocking stuff down on them. If you go all the way to the top of the White Buttress it is best to hike down. If you walk a bit back you will run into the Overland trail. Right (safest but longer)takes you over to Orange Crush in a minute where you can follow the trail down. Left crosses the seasonal stream that forms the Venus Falls. If you cross it and follow it down a little, you can scramble down to the right above and then down the edge of the Venus Wall (exposed) This is fastest, but not suggested unless you have already come up that way and know your way around. Screw up and you can easily come down too fast.

Location

Just right of sesame street (5.10c) start on steep somewhat dirty but juggy rock.

Protection

10 bolts to 1st anchor anchor. 60m rope is a good idea i think.
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This is a link up that combines new and borrowed parts of older routes, resulting in a three pitch 5.8+ that goes the full height of the cliff. If going higher and not just doing the first pitch as a sport pitch (lowering back to your belayer), you can continue climbing directly to the Sesame anchors as 1 pitch, skipping the belay on the ledge. The second pitch (or 3rd if you belay at the first anchor) of this route starts off of the Sesame Street anchors. It is nice but very easy, and has not been cleaned. It has a large loose flake on it that needs to be removed. Be careful of it, for yourself and those below.

There is a two eyebolt anchor on top of the pitch above Sesame,just below the tree ledge. If you are going to do the last pitch of Slick, up the white buttress, mantel onto the tree ledge and belay from a tree. This last pitch has not been retroed yet and there is no top anchor I think it took small to medium gear with an old pin or two (5.8 might be a sandbag compared to the bottom ;) )

-Edited to clarify Nov 26, 2007
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
there is a big chunk that broke off about two bolts below the anchor, no harder just have to work left then back to the next bolt Mar 20, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
 
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
 
So if you wanted to do the multi pitch parts of this route then you would have to do three pitches in order to finish it up? How can you go about doing this? Aug 4, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I never got back to finish cleaning and equipping this. What you would do though is climb the first pitch of the Big Easy, but continue past the belay ledge up through the notch to the belay at the top of Sesame St. A line of bolts leads up directly from there ( uncleaned so watch out for a large loose rock). From the next belay, below a tree ledge, you would scramble up over a short vegetated area to reach the left side of the high white buttress at the top of the cliff. There is a rt angling seam with a pin or 2 in it that is the last pitch of Slick. Tim Gotwols said that I could clean and bolt it, but I haven't found a time when I was there, the cliff was open and there was nobody below Aug 5, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
oh that makes much more sense now, is it about the same grade to climb to the anchors of Sesame St? or do you meet up witht he upper crux of Sesame St? Aug 5, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
You go around the Sesame crux and come at the anchors from the right, so same 5.7 grade Sep 24, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
FA Mark Sprague 2/05 Jan 29, 2010
bradley white   Bend
In 1982, the upper half of the first pitch of the 'Big Easy' was the original 2nd pitch of 'Metamorphosis'. The 2nd pitch originally began up the obvious left facing ramp corner of 'Metamorphosis'. The 3rd pitch was done that year.
I made attempts on rappel to improve the 1st pitch higher up section (including trying to nail into a crack a railroad spike. After failing at that I gave up on the route. I Climbed it this spring. The start is a stick clip or had a crazy commitment to reach the first bolt for us. My arms aren't has strong as they used too be. May 29, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
On the way up Bourbon Street I noticed a bolt on this 2nd (or 3rd if you are referencing the new guide book) pitch. Without knowing about anchors above Sesame Street, I extended the 2nd bolt in the starting corner of the 2nd pitch. I snuck past the right side of a tree to the bolt I had seen below but realized I didn't have a runner for this bolt so decided to run out to the next bolt above on easy ground. Next time i'll have to try and find the anchors I should have been at. Jun 13, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
You should really do the first and second pitch as a single pitch, there will be a little more rope drag but if you dont the second pitch on has one bolt and is boring by itself, its maybe 25 feet with only ten feet of fun climbing. So run P1 and P2 together :) Aug 11, 2010
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
So I'm not sure, but the last bolt before the anchors on pitch 1 felt completely out of reach. I found myself 3 or 4 feet to the left of it and decided it was less sketchy to skip the bolt than to try to clip it. Am I using bad beta? Or did a hold break? The specific route I took up this climb felt very natural. May 29, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
I remember feeling the same, I always end up clipping it when it is by my waist because getting up higher seems to make it easier. Not sure if a hold broke or what but it is a little out of reach... May 29, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I think I remember the last bolt being a hip clip with a little reach, but it shouldn't be anything that feels sketchy. If possible I always make my bolts so somebody 4' 11" can still clip without too much problem. You might have to relax and use smaller foot holds though. I wouldn't be surprised if something broke. Some of the flakes are kind of soft. May 29, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
My three stars are for the first pitch. It's a lot of fun and I can't ask for a better moderate to warm up on. I found the next pitch(es) to not be as good but it's a fun way to get to the top and worth it for the view alone. We combined the "second pitch" with the third pitch and did two clean raps back to the base. I'd recommend this method as the second pitch is just one bolt to the sesame street anchors. Don't fall here as it's a bit run out and I can't imagine it would be good for your rope with the flake and corner. It's pretty easy climbing though. Mar 27, 2013
J Meagher
  5.7+
J Meagher  
  5.7+
Anybody know about the trad pitch Slick that goes up the flake above the first pitch anchors? The guidebook says its 5.9 and I was wondering if its worth doing Dec 6, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
As the book says, the corner is very nice but the exit from the corner has fallen off... i did it with the original exit and ive been on it since... id say its worth playing on on a TR after doing bourbon street... there are much better trad routes to do though before you bother bringing extra gear up there... do Space Shuttle! that thing is rad! Dec 7, 2013
S. Neoh  
Yeah, SS is nice. Be ready to clean off the cob webs on the way up tho. If memory serves, the gear on this is relatively easy to place and bomber.
For more adventure, try Boats From Cuba and deal with blocks (some loose) and crimps instead :) Dec 7, 2013
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
  5.7
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
  5.7
Fun route, we did the first three pitches in two pitches. Once you clear the overhang/notch head up and left to the pine tree and sling it and draw it to minimize a pretty long runout, then head straight up the bolts. Oct 15, 2014
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
  5.7
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
  5.7
Make sure you continue left on the second pitch unless you want to climb a 10c :) It's surprisingly easy to end up off route on Bourbon Street (at least, it was for our group), especially since Bourbon Street is (as of 6/24/18) a lot cleaner than P2/3 of Big Easy. Jun 25, 2018
Avery Kalish
  5.7
Avery Kalish  
  5.7
Nice, fun, easy route. Quality warm up. Jul 30, 2018

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